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CONTENTS

THIRD VOLUME.

2

THE PLATES

VOYAGE

THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN

ROUND THE WORLD.

CHAPTER I.

      Our progress from the coast of New Albion, still attended with light variable winds, was so slow, that at noon of the 15th the shores were yet in sight, bearing from N. 17 E. to S. 69 E.; the former, being the nearest, was distant 7 leagues; the observed latitude was 30° 14', longitude 243° 57½.

      In the afternoon, the wind blew a moderate gale at W. N. W., which brought us by day-light the next morning within sight of the island of Guadaloupe. This island is composed of high naked rocky mountains; is about thirteen miles long, nearly in a north and south direction, with two rocky islets; one lying W. S. W., at the distance of half a league;

the other lying south, two miles from its south point, which is situated in latitude 28° 54', longitude 241° 38'. The wind at N.W. continued to blow a pleasant gale with fair weather until midnight; but at this time it veered round, and settled in the north-east trade. Our distance was now about 75 leagues from the coast, and it is probable the north-west winds do not extend far beyond that limit, as the wind that succeeded continued without calms, or other interruptions, between the N. E. and E. N. E., blowing a Ready, gentle, and pleasant gale.

      On the 22d, in latitude 23° 23', longitude 234° 37', the variation of the compass was 7° eastwardly; here we had thirty hours calm, after which we had a gentle breeze from the N. E.; this as we proceeded was attended first by cloudy and gloomy weather, and afterwards with rain, and sudden gusts or flurries of wind. On the 25th, a tropic bird was seen, and a common gull that appeared to be much fatigued, and inclined to alight on board.

      This very unpleasant weather, similar to that which we had experienced in this neighbourhood about the conclusion of last january, still continued; and on the 29th, in latitude 19° 1', longitude 231° 58', the wind, after veering to the S. E., became light, and, like the weather, was very unsettled. We were now passing the spot assigned to the los Majos isles, at the distance of a few miles only to the southward of our former track; but we perceived no one circumstance that indicated the vicinity of land.

      On the 31st, the wind seemed to be fixed in the northern quarter, but the atmosphere was still very unpleasant, and the gloomy weather was accompanied by much rain. On the 3d of january, in latitude 18° 34', longitude 213° 32', a very heavy swell rolled from the N. W., and the wind in that direction was light, with alternate calms, attended by foggy or dark hazy weather until the 6th, when in latitude 19° 19', longitude 208° 48', we had a few hours of fair and pleasant weather; this was again succeeded by the same gloomy atmosphere that we had experienced during the greater part of this passage, and the wind continued to be very variable between the N. W. and S. S. W. In the afternoon of the following day the weather was more favorable, and the wind from the

northward settled in the N. E; to this we spread all our canvass in the expectation of seeing the island of Owhyhee at day-light the next morning. The wind however slackened during the night, and the weather being dark and gloomy, it was not until about nine o'clock in the forenoon that Mowna-kaah was discovered shewing his hoary head above the clouds, bearing by compass W. ½ s.; but the haze and mist with which the district of Aheedo was inveloped, prevented our discerning the shores. The observed latitude at noon was 19° 52'; at this time the east end of Owhyhee bore by compass S. 52 W., at the distance of 10 leagues, by which it appeared, that Arnold's chronometer, No. 14. had erred in longitude since our departure from the coast of New Albion 27'; his No. 176, 21'; Kendall's, 52'; and the dead reckoning 3° 40'; all being to the eastward of the truth. This error has however been corrected, in assigning the several situations during this passage.

      We stood for the land until sun-set, when being within 2 leagues of the shore, we employed the night in preserving our station off that part of the coast, where we expected to find the harbour or bay of Whyeatea: in quest of which I dispatched Mr. Whidbey in the cutter the next morning, attended by a boat from the Chatham, and another from the Dædalus, all well armed. The appearance of the shores did not seem much in favor of our finding a more eligible situation here than at Karakakooa, for accomplishing our several purposes; notwithstanding the representation that had been made to us of its being very commodious.

      The boats had scarcely departed when some of the natives came off in their canoes, but owing to a very heavy swell from the northward, they could bring us but few refreshments. As soon as they understood who we were, they told us that Tamaahmaah, with several of the principal chiefs, were then on shore waiting in expectation of our arrival; and then immediately made the best of their way towards the shore, proclaiming our return to their country with shouts, apparently of great joy and gladness.

      About ten in the forenoon we were honored with the presence of the king, with his usual confidence and cheerful disposition. It was impossible to mistake the happiness he expressed on seeing us again,

which seemed to be greatly increased by his meeting us at this, his most favorite part of the island; where he hoped we should be able to remain some time, to take the benefits arising from its fertility; which, from the appearance of the neighbouring shores, seemed to promise an abundant supply of the various refreshments these countries are known to produce.

      Tamaahmaah had noticed the boats in their way to the shore, and trusted they would return with a favorable report; which he, as well as ourselves, anxiously waited for until five in the evening. Mr. Whidbey now informed me, that during the prevalence of the southerly winds, in the more advanced part of the spring season, Whyeatea might probably be found a tolerably secure and convenient place, as the land formed a deep bay, which was additionally sheltered by a reef lying off its south-east point, with foundings from 25 to 6 fathoms, clear sandy bottom; at least as far as his examination had extended. This had not been very minute, as the bay was intirely exposed to the northerly winds, which then blew very strong; and being attended with a heavy sea from that quarter, rendered any attempt to land from our boats impracticable. On this report I determined to proceed to Karakakooa, as that bay was indisputably at this time the most secure and convenient port for shipping of any in the Sandwich islands.

      My intention was directly made known to Tamaahmaah, and I requested that he would give us the pleasure of his company thither; well knowing that his influence over the inferior chiefs and the people would be attended with the most desirable consequences, in preserving the harmony and good understanding that already so happily existed. He did not however seem much inclined to accept my invitation, or to give me a positive answer; but requested, that the vessels might remain some days in this neighbourhood, to avail ourselves of the ample supply of refreshments that might be procured here, before we proceeded to any other part of the island; adding, that he would remain with us to see this business properly performed.

      I was by no means disposed to accede to the wishes of the king, nor was I satisfied with the arrangement he had proposed.

      The vessels having been driven far to leeward on the morning of the 10th, and the wind then blowing strong from the northward, attended with a very heavy sea, I pointed out and explained to Tamaahmaah, the great improbability of our being able to comply with his desires, and the necessity of our proceeding without delay to some place of secure anchorage, for the purpose of refitting; renewing at the same time and in the strongest terms, my solicitations for his company. I did not sail to enforce how important his presence would necessarily be, not only to us for whom he had repeatedly expressed the greatest respect and friendship, but also to the welfare of his own subjects. He readily acknowledged the propriety of my observations, and how much he was inclined to adopt the measure I had proposed; but he now avowed that he could not accompany us, as the taboo appertaining to the festival of the new year demanded his continuance for a certain period, within the limits of the district in which these ceremonies had commenced. The time of interdiction was not yet expired, and it was not possible he could absent himself without the particular sanction of the priests. To obtain this indulgence, he considered his presence to be indispensibly necessary on more at the morai. Aware of the superior influence possessed by the priesthood, and of the strict adherence of all ranks to their superstitions, I suspected that if Tamaahmaah went on shore they would not allow him to return; for this reason I recommended, that one of the chiefs in his suite should repair thither, and make known the king's pleasure. But as this proposal did not seem to meet his ideas, or to be consonant to his wishes, I resolved not to detain him contrary to his own free will and inclination, or by any other means than those of persuasion. Yet as I considered his attendance to be an object of too much importance to be readily relinquished, I had recourse to a fort of artifice, that I had reason to believe would answer my purpose by its operation on his feelings. I desisted from all importunities, and attributed his declining my invitation to a coolness and a relaxation in the friendship he had formerly shewn, and pretended to entertain; and I stated, that I had no doubt of soon finding amongst the other islands some chief,

whose assistance, protection, and authority, would on all occasions be readily afforded.

      Tamaahmaah had always been accustomed to attend our meals, and breakfast in particular he was extremely fond of partaking with us; but under the reproach he had just received, of a want of friendship, no solicitation could prevail on him to accept of any thing at table; he fat in a silent thoughtful mood, his sensibility was probed to the quick, and his generous heart, which continued to entertain the warmest friendship and regard, not only for me but for every one in our little community, yielded to our wishes; though at the risk of incurring the displeasure of the priests, by an unprecedented breach of their religious rites. At length he determined, that his half brother Crymamahoo should be sent to the priests, to communicate his intentions of accompanying us. On my saying, that this resolution made me very happy, and met my hearty concurrence, he replied, that I had treated him unkindly in suspecting that his friendship was abated, for that it remained unshaken, as his future conduct would demonstrate; but that he considered himself to be the last person in his dominions who ought to violate the established laws, and the regulations of the country which he governed.

      Our little difference being thus amicably adjusted, he ate a hearty break-fast; and having given his brother the necessary instructions for governing this part of the island during his absence, in which business they were occupied an hour, Crymamahoo was dismissed, and directed to return with all convenient speed to communicate the answer of the priests.

      Thoroughly convinced of the purity of Tamaahmaah's friendly intentions, I had receded from my former determination with respect to him, or any other of the chiefs, sleeping on board the ship. Our party now consisted of seven chiefs, three of whom were accompanied by their favorite females; but Tahow-man-noo, the king's consort, was not of the number. As she had never sailed in her attendance on him, the cause of her absence became a subject of inquiry, and I had the mortification of understanding that a separation had taken place, in consequence of its having

been reported, that too great an intimacy had subsisted between her and Tianna.

      I understood from the king's attendants, that the infidelity of the queen was by no means certain; and as I well knew the reciprocal affection of this royal pair, and as she was then residing with her father at, or in the neighbourhood of Karakakooa, I thought it a charitable office, to make a tender of my endeavours for the purpose of bringing about a reconciliation. In reply to this obtrusion of my services, Tamaahmaah expressed his thanks; and assured me, that he should be always happy to receive any advice on state affairs, or any public matters, especially where peace or war might be concerned; but that such differences as might occur in, or respect, his domestic happiness, he considered to be totally out of my province. This rebuff I silently sustained; cherishing the hope that the period would arrive, when I should be able to prevail on him to entertain a different opinion.

      The wind from the northward, attended with a very heavy sea, reduced us to our close-reefed topsails, and as we stood in shore in the afternoon a very strong current evidently pressed us to leeward. The appearance of the weather indicating no favorable or early change, there was little probability of our soon seeing Crymamahoo, or any of the inhabitants of Aheedoo; this induced the king to call his whole retinue together, both male and female, in order to take their advice as to his proceeding, without first receiving the religious assent he had dispatched Crymamahoo to obtain. The result of their deliberations was, a unanimous opinion that the priests would, on a certainty, accede to his wishes. This had been undoubtedly the previous sentiment of the king, or he would not have instructed his brother, in the manner he had done, how to conduct himself during his absence.

      Although I earnestly wished to avoid being the cause of endangering his popularity, yet I was so anxiously desirous of his company, that I did not hesitate a moment in giving my hearty concurrence to this determination, in order that we might make the best of our way to Karakakooa.

      Our course was now directed round the east point of the island, along its south-east side; we made a tolerably good progress; and as we passed the district of Opoona, on the morning of the 11th, the weather being very clear and pleasant, we had a most excellent view of Mowna Roa's snowy summit, and the range of lower hills that extend towards the east end of Owhyhee. From the tops of these, about the middle of the descending ridge, several columns of smoke were seen to ascend, which Tamaahmaah, and the rest of our friends said, were occasioned by the subterranean fires that frequently broke out in violent eruptions, causing amongst the natives such a multiplicity of superstitious notions, as to give rise to a religious order of persons, who perform volcanic rites; consisting of various sacrifices of the different productions of the country, for the purpose of appealing the wrath of the enraged demon.

      On approaching the shores of the district of Kaoo, we were met by several of the inhabitants, bringing in their canoes some refreshments and other productions of the country. Those who first approached us seemed to be much surprised, and many of them were not a little alarmed at seeing their king on board; inquiring with great earnestness, whether his being there, and having broken the taboo, was by his own choice, or by compulsion. On being assured by all present that Tamaahmaah, and the rest of the chiefs, were under no restraint whatever, but were accompanying us by their own free will, they became perfectly satisfied; and appeared to be equally so on understanding, that it was the king's pleasure, that the hogs and vegetables they had brought off should be delivered on board, without their receiving any equivalent in return; nor could we, without giving Tamaahmaah serious offence, have infringed this order, which seemed to be very cheerfully complied with on the part of his subjects; and, in the course of the forenoon, the vessels procured a sufficient supply for their present consumption. Whether the king accounted with these people afterwards for the value of their property thus disposed of, or not, I could not rightly understand; but from the great good humour with which they complied with the royal order, and from some conversation with one of the king's attendants, re -

specting the value of the refreshments so delivered, I had reason to believe that a compensation would be allowed to them.

      Shortly after noon we were opposite the south point of the island; and, as a report had been circulated that close round, on its western side, good anchorage and excellent shelter had been found. (though it had escaped the notice of Captain Cook) Mr. Whidbey was dispatched in the cutter, in order to ascertain the truth of this assertion, which was soon proved to be void of foundation; for although a strong westerly gale prevented Mr.Whidbey from making a very minute examination, yet he clearly discovered that the shores were nearly straight, and exposed to a most tremendous surf, that broke with such fury as to render landing, if not impossible, highly dangerous, even to those of the inhabitants who are most expert in the management of their canoes.

      The wind continued to blow very strong between west and N. W. until the morning of the 12th; when it became variable, and allowed us to make but a very flow progress towards Karakakooa. Tamaahmaah being very anxious that we should gain the place of our destination, went on shore for the purpose of placing lights to conduct us in the evening to our former anchorage; where, about ten the following night we anchored near an American brig, named the Lady Washington, commanded by Mr. John Kendrick.

      As we worked into the bay many of the inhabitants were assembled on the shores, who announced their congratulations by shouts of joy, as, on our different tacks. we approached the shores of the neighbouring villages. At this late hour many of our former friends, particularly of the fair sex, lost no time in testifying the sincerity of the public sentiment in our favour. Young and Davis we had likewise the pleasure of finding in the exercise of those judicious principles they had so wisely adopted, and by their example and advice had so uniformly been carried into effect. The great propriety with which they had conducted themselves, had tended in a high degree to the comfort and happiness of these people, to the gratification of their own feelings, and to a pre-eminence in the good opinion of the king, that had intitled them to his warmest a affections. The same sort of esteem and regard, we understood, was shewn to

them, if not by all, at lead by the well-disposed inhabitants of the island.

      The Discovery was secured nearly in her former station on the following morning; and the Chatham and Dædalus were disposed of in the most convenient manner for carrying into execution the respective services that each had to perform.

      Mr. Kendrick had been here about six weeks, and it was with infinite pleasure we understood, that during that time he had not only been liberally supplied by the inhabitants of the island with its several productions, but that the same orderly, and civil behaviour had been observed towards him, which we had experienced on our former visit; and which we had every reason to expect would be continued, from the assurances we received from the chiefs, and from the acclamations of the people, which had resounded from all quarters on our arrival.

      Tamaahmaah understanding that it would be necessary that we should land parts of the cargoes of all the vessels, appointed proper places for their reception; and knowing we had no more men than we could constantly employ for the speedy accomplishment of this business, he undertook to be answerable for the safety and security of every thing we might have occasion to put on shore, without our having any guard there for its protection. He also gave orders that his people should fill all our water casks; and as he considered that bartering with the several chiefs, and other individuals, for the valuable refreshments of the country, would not only be troublesome and unpleasant, but might give rise to disputes and misunderstandings between the parties; he desired we would daily, or as often as should suit our convenience, make our demands known to him, and he would take care that the three vessels were duly supplied with every necessary refreshment.

      This considerate and very friendly arrangement I was happy to concur in, and at day-light on wednesday morning three large canoes, laden with forty very fine hogs, and thirty small ones, with a proportionate quantity of vegetables, were, by the directions of the king, distributed amongst our three vessels.

      On this occasion, it was impossible to avoid making a companion between our reception and treatment here, by these untaught children of nature, and the ceremonious conditional offers of accommodation we experienced at St. Francisco and Monterrey, from the educated civilized governor of New Albion and California.

      After the large canoes had delivered their acceptable cargoes, they received and took to the shore the live cattle, which I had been more successful in bringing from New Albion than on the former occasion. These consisted of a young bull nearly full grown, two fine cows, and two very fine bull calves, all in high condition; as likewise five rams, and five ewe sheep. Two of each of these, with most of the black cattle, were given to the king; and as those I had brought last year had thrived exceedingly well; the sheep having bred, and one of the cows having brought forth a cow calf; I had little doubt, by this second importation, of having at length effected the very desirable object of establishing in this island a breed of those valuable animals.

      I learned from Tamaahmaah, that he had issued the strictest orders so to regulate the conduct and behaviour of his people towards us, as he trusted would be the means of insuring a continuance of the harmony that had so happily subsisted on our former visits to his dominions; and he added, that he had many enemies even amongst the chiefs of Owhyhee, who were not unlikely to use their endeavours for the purpose of frustrating his good intentions, and that it was very important that the designs of such ill-disposed persons should be watchfully guarded against. I thanked Tamaahmaah for his vigilant attention to preserve our tranquillity and comfort, and informed him, that I had also issued orders and directions similar to those given on my former visit. These having the same tendency, and operating to the same end, with those enjoined by himself, would, I hoped, be effectual in affording us the recreation and enjoyment of the country, and in securing to us a continuation of the then subsisting friendly intercourse.

      These necessary precautions being taken on both sides, we immediately began upon the various services that demanded our attention. Those appertaining to the reception of the provisions and stores from

the Dædalus, were the primary objects of our consideration; and by the orderly and docile behaviour of all classes of the inhabitants, this business was carried into execution with a degree of facility, and confidence in our perfect security, equal to the accommodation that could possibly have been obtained in any port of Europe.

      There were not at this time many of the principal chiefs in our neighbourhood. Our former friend Kahowmotoo paid us an early visit, with a present of twenty large hogs, and a proportionable quantity of vegetables. He was not, however, in his usually cheerful good spirits, but was much depressed, in consequence of a violent indisposition under which his favorite son Whokaa laboured, from a wound he had received in the exercise of throwing the spear with a man of mean rank. After a long contention for superiority, their play, it seemed, terminated in earned, and the young chief received his adversary's spear, which was barbed, in the throat. Much difficulty had attended its being taken out, which had occasioned a wound that had battled all their art to cure, and had reduced him to the last stage of his existence. His antagonist was soon seized, and the next day his eyes were pulled out, and, after remaining in that deplorable state two days, he was executed, by being strangled with a rope.

      As some of the gentlemen intended to accompany Mr. Menzies on an excursion into the interior part of the country, they were, agreeably to our plan of regulations, attended by a chief of the village of Kakooa with several of the king's people, who had directions to supply all their wants, and to afford them every assistance and service that they might require.

      The harmony that had attended the execution of all our employments had so facilitated the equipment of the vessels, that, by the following tuesday, the business in the Discovery's hold was in that state of forwardness as to permit our attending to other objects. The astronomical department claimed my first thoughts; and being of such material importance, I was anxious to lose no time in sending the tents, observatory, and instruments, on shore, now that a party could be afforded for their protection. On this occasion I was surprized to find the king make some

objection; to their being erected in their former situation, near the morai; giving us as a reason, that he could not sanction our inhabiting the tabooed lands, without previously obtaining the permission of an old woman, who, we understand. was the daughter of the venerable Kaoo, and wife to the treacherous Koah. Being totally unacquainted before, that the women ever possessed the least authority over their consecrated places, or religious ceremonies, this circumstance much surprized me, especially as the king seemed to be apprehensive of receiving a refusal from this old lady, and which, after waiting on shore for some time, proved to be the case. Tamaahmaah observing my disappointment, intreated me to fix upon some other part of the bay; but as it was easily made obvious to his understanding that no other spot would be equally convenient, he instantly assembled some of the principal priests of the morai, and after having a serious conference with them, he acquainted me, that we were at liberty to occupy the consecrated ground as formerly, which we accordingly took possession of the next morning.

      Mr. Whidbey, who had charge of the encampment, attended it on shore under a guard of fix marines; these were sent, however, more for the sake of form than for necessity; as Tamaahmaah had appointed one of his half brothers, Trywhookee, a chief of some consequence, together with several of the priests, to protect, and render the party on shore every service their situation might demand. To this spot, as on our former visit, none were admitted but those of the society of priests, the principal chiefs, and some few of their male attendants; no women, on any pretence whatever, being ever admitted within the sacred limits of the morai.

      The unfortunate son of Kahowmotoo had been brought by his father from one of his principal places of residence, about six miles north of the bay where the unfortunate accident happened, to the village of Kowrowa, in order to benefit by such medical or other assistance as we might be able to afford, but without effect; for in the afternoon he breathed his last.

      The periodical taboo, that ought to have commenced the following evening, was, on this occasion, suspended, to manifest that they were

      offended with their deity for the death of this young chief; whose loss seemed to be greatly deplored by all the family, but most particularly so by Kahowmotoo; of whom I took a proper opportunity of inquiring when the corpse would be interred, and if there would be any objection to my attending the funeral solemnities. To this he made answer, that the burial would take place the day following, and that he would come on board at any convenient hour, and accompany me on shore for that purpose.

      I remained perfectly satisfied with the promise made by Kahowmotoo; and was the next morning greatly disappointed on his informing me, that Kavaheero, the chief of the village at which his son had died, had, in the course of the night, unknown to him or any of his family, caused the body of the young chief to be interred in one of the sepulchral holes of the steep hill, forming the north side of the bay. This circumstance could not but be received as an additional proof of their aversion to our becoming acquainted with their religious rites, and their determination to prevent our attendance on any of their sacred formalities.

      The party accompanying Mr. Menzies returned with him on saturday, after having had a very pleasant excursion, though it had been somewhat fatiguing in consequence of the badness of the paths in the interior country, where in many places the ground broke in under their feet. Their object had been to gain the summit of Mowna Roa, which they had not been able to effect in the direction they had attempted it; but they had reached the top of another mountain, which though not so lofty as Mowna-rowna, or Mowna-kaah, is yet very conspicuous, and is called by the natives Worroray. This mountain rises from the western extremity of the island, and on its summit was a volcanic crater that readily accounted for the formation of that part of the country over which they had found it so dangerous to travel. The good offices of their Indian guide and servants received a liberal reward, to which they were highly intitled by their friendly and orderly behaviour.

      The whole of the retinue that had attended Tamaahmaah from Aheedoo, with the addition of some new visitors, lived intirely on board the ship, and felt themselves not only perfectly at home, but very advan-

tageously situated, in being enabled to purchase such commodities of their own produce or manufacture which were brought to us for sale, as attracted their attention, with the presents which they received from time to time. Notwithstanding this indulgence, which I thought could not have sailed to keep them honest, such is their irresistible propensity to thieving, that five of my table knives were missing. The whole party stoutly denied having any knowledge of the theft; but as it was evident the knives were stolen by some of them, I ordered them all, except the king, instantly to quit the ship, and gave positive directions that no one of them should be re-admitted. Beside this, I deemed it expedient to make a point with Tamaahmaah that the knives should be restored. He saw the propriety of my insisting on this demand, and before noon three of the knives were returned.

      The taboo, which had been postponed in consequence of Whokaa's death, was observed this evening, though not without holding out a sentiment of resentment to their deity for having suffered him to die; for instead of its continuing the usual time of two nights and one whole day, this was only to be in force from sun-set to the rising of the sun the following morning; which the king having observed, returned to us as soon as the ceremonies were finished.

      Being very much displeased with the ungrateful behaviour of his attendants, I demanded of Tamaahmaah, in a serious tone, the two knives that had not yet been restored. I expatiated on the disgrace that attached to every individual of the whole party, and the consequence of the example to all the subordinate classes of his people. He appeared to be much chagrined, and to suffer a high degree of mortification at the very unhandsome manner in which I had been treated; this was still further increased, by one of his most particular favorites having been charged, and on just grounds, as one of the delinquents.

      About noon he went on shore, in a very sullen humour, and did not return until I had sent for him in the evening, which summons he very readily obeyed; and soon another knife was returned, which he declared was the only one he had been able to find, and that if any more were yet missing, they must have been lost by some other means. The

      truth, as we afterwards understood, was that the knife had been given, by the purloiner, to a person of much consequence, over whom Tamaahmaah did not with to enforce his authority.

      These knives had not been stolen, as might be naturally imagined, for their value as iron instruments, but for the sake of their ivory handles. These were intended to have been converted into certain neck ornaments, that are considered as sacred and invaluable. The bones of some fish are, with great labour, appropriated to this purpose; but the colour and texture of the ivory surpassing, in so eminent a degree, the other ordinary material, the temptation was too great to be resisted.

      Under the particular circumstances, which we understood attended the missing knife, I readily put up with its loss; because, in so doing, I was relieved of the inconvenience which a number of noisy and troublesome visitors had occasioned. These, however, paid clearly for their dishonesty, in being abridged the great source of wealth which they had enjoyed on board, and which had enabled them to procure many valuable commodities of their own country, at the expence of asking only for such of our European articles as the seller demanded.

      Our business in the hold being finished, the seamen were employed in a thorough examination of all the rigging; and although this was the first time, with respect to the lower rigging, that an examination had taken place since the ship was commissioned, we had the satisfaction of finding it in much better condition than, from the trials it had endured, we could reasonably have expected.

      Since the death of Whokaa, Kahowmotoo had not paid the least attention to the Owhyhean taboos; but as similar interdictions were to take place on the 28th, on the island of Mowee, these he punctually observed: and on the following day Tamaahmaah also was again thus religiously engaged; but as there were no prayers on this day, the people at large seemed to be under little restriction.

      On thursday we were favored with the company of Terree-my-tee, Crymamahoo, Tianna, and some other chiefs, from the distant parts of the island.

      Their arrival had been in consequence of a summons from the king, who had called the grand council of the island, on the subject of its ces-

sion to the crown of Great Britain, which was unanimously desired. This important business, however, for which their attendance had been demanded, appeared to be of secondary consideration to all of them; and the happiness they expressed on our return, together with their cordial behaviour, proved, beyond dispute, that our arrival at Owhyhee was the object most conducive to the pleasure of their journey. Even Tianna conducted himself with an unusual degree of good humour; but as neither he, nor his brother Nomatahah, from their turbulent, treacherous, and ungrateful dispositions, were favorites amongst us, his humility, on this occasion, obtained him only the reputation of possessing a very superior degree of art and duplicity. But as the principal object I had in view was to preserve the good understanding that had been established between us, and, if possible, to secure it on a permanent basis, for the benefit of those who might succeed us at these islands, I waved all retrospective considerations, and treated Tianna with every mark of attention, to which his rank, as one of the six provincial chiefs, intitled him, and with which, on all occasions, he appeared to be highly gratified.

      These chiefs brought intelligence, that a quantity of timber which had been sent for at my request, was on its way hither; it had been cut down under the directions of an Englishman, whose name was Boid, formerly the mate of the sloop Washington, but who had relinquished that way of life, and had entered into the service of Tamaahmaah. He appeared in the character of a shipwright, and had undertaken to build, with these materials, a vessel for the king, after the European fashion; but not having been regularly brought up to this business, both himself and his comrades, Young and Davis, were fearful of encountering too many difficulties; especially as they were all much at a loss in the first outset, that of laying down the keel, and properly letting up the frame; but could they be rightly assisted in these primary operations, Boid (who had the appearance of being very industrious and ingenious) seemed to entertain no doubt of accomplishing the rest of their undertaking.

      This afforded me an opportunity of conferring on Tamaahmaah a favor that he valued far beyond every other obligation in my power to bestow, by permitting our carpenters to begin the vessel; from whose example, and the assistance of these three engineers, he was in hopes that his people would hereafter be able to build boats and small vessels for themselves.

      An ambition so truly laudable, in one to whose hospitality and friendship we had been so highly indebted, and whose good offices were daily administering in some way or other to our comfort, it was a grateful task to cherish and promote; and as our carpenters had finished the re-equipment of the vessels, on the 1st of february they laid down the keel, and began to prepare the frame work of His Owhyhean Majesty's first man of war. The length of its keel was thirty-six feet, the extreme breadth of the vessel nine feet and a quarter, and the depth of her hold about five feet; her name was to be The Britannia, and was intended as a protection to the royal person of Tamaahmaah; and I believe few circumstances in his life ever afforded him more solid satisfaction.

      It was not very likely that our stay would be so protracted, as to allow our artificers to finish the work they had begun, nor did the king seem to expect I should defer my departure hence for that purpose; but confided in the assertion of Boid, that, with the assistance we should afford him, he would be able to complete the vessel.

      In the evening a very strict taboo commenced; it was called The taboo of the Hahcoo, and appertains to the taking of two particular kinds of fish; one of which, amongst these islanders, bears that name; these are not lawful to be taken at the same time, for during those months that the one is permitted to be caught the other is prohibited. They are very punctual in the observance of this anniversary, which is, exclusively of their days, months, and year, an additional means of dividing their time, or, perhaps, properly speaking, their seasons. The continuance of this interdiction ought to have extended to ten days; but as it is the prerogative of the king to shorten its duration in any one particular district, he directed on our account that in the district of

Akona it should cease with the men on the morning of the 4th, and with the women on the day following.

      Most of our essential business was nearly brought to a conclusion by the 6th, and our remaining here for the accomplishment of what yet remained to be done, was no longer an object of absolute necessity; yet I was induced to prolong our stay in this comfortable situation for two reasons; first, because the plan of operations I intended to pursue, in the prosecution of the remaining part of our survey on the coast of North-West America, did not require our repairing immediately to the northward; and secondly, because our former experience amongst the other islands had proved, that there was no prospect of obtaining that abundant. supply of refreshments which Owhyhee afforded, even at the expence of arms and ammunition; articles that humanity and policy had uniformly dictated me to with-hold, not only from these islanders, but from every tribe of Indians with whom we had any concern.

      The completion of our survey of these islands required still the examination of the north sides of Mowee, Woahoo, and Attowai; and reserving sufficient time for that purpose, I determined to spend here the rest I had to spare, before we should proceed to the American coast. This afforded an opportunity to Mr. Menzies and Mr. Baker, accompanied by some others of the gentlemen, to make another excursion into the country for the purpose of ascending Mowna Roa, which now appeared to be a task that was likely to be accomplished; as we had understood from the natives, that the attempt would be less difficult from the south point of the island than from any other direction. For this purpose the party, furnished by Tamaahmaah with a large double canoe, and a sufficient number of people, under the orders of a Ready careful chief, sat out, in the confidence of receiving every assistance and attention that could be necessary to render the expedition interesting and agreeable.

      The Dædalus being, in all respects, ready to depart for port Jackson, Lieutenant Hanson on the 8th received his orders from me for that purpose, together with a copy of our survey of the coast of New Albion,

southward from Monterrey; and such dispatches for government as I thought proper to transmit by this conveyance, to the care of the commanding officer at that port.

      Some plants of the bread fruit were also put on board, in order that Mr. Hanson, in his way to New South Wales, should endeavour, in the event of his visiting Norfolk island, to introduce there that most valuable production of the vegetable kingdom.

CHAPTER II.

Sequel of transactions at Karakakooa — Cession of the island of Owhyhee — Astronomical and nautical observations.

      WHILST the re-equipment of the vessels was going forward in this hospitable port, I had remained chiefly on board; but having now little to attend to there, on sunday I took up my abode at the encampment, highly to the satisfaction of the king; who, for the purpose of obtaining such knowledge as might hereafter enable him to follow the example of our artificers, had paid the strictest attention to all their proceedings in the construction of the Britannia. This had latterly so much engaged him, that we had been favored with little of his company on board the vessels; yet I had the satisfaction of reflecting, that his having been occasionally with us, and constantly in our neighbourhood, had been the means of restraining the ill-disposed, and of encouraging the very orderly and friendly behaviour that we had experienced from the inhabitants without the least interruption whatever. An uniform zeal directed the conduct of every Indian, in the performance of such offices of kindness as we appeared to stand in need of, or which they considered would be acceptable; these were executed with such promptitude and cheerfulness, as to indicate that they considered their labours amply repaid by our acceptance of their services; yet I trust they were better rewarded than if they had acted on more interested principles.

      Our reception and entertainment here by these unlettered people, who in general have been distinguished by the appellation of savages, was such as, I believe, is seldom equalled by the most civilized nations of

Europe, and made me no longer regret the inhospitality we had met with at St. Francisco and Monterrey. The temporary use that we wished to make of a few yards of the American shore, for our own convenience and for the promotion of science, was not here, as in New Albion, granted with restrictions that precluded our acceptance of the favor we solicited; on the contrary, immediately on our arrival an ample space, protected by the most sacred laws of the country, was appropriated to our service; whilst those of our small community whose inclinations led them into the interior parts of the island, either for recreation, or to examine its natural productions, found their desires met and encouraged by the kind assistance of Tamaahmaah, and their several pursuits rendered highly entertaining and agreeable, by the friendship and hospitality which was shewn them at every house in the course of their excursions.

      A conduct so disinterestedly noble, and uniformly observed by so untutored a race, will not sail to excite a certain degree of regret, that the first social principles, teaching mutual support and universal benevolence, should so frequently, amongst civilized people, be sacrificed to suspicion, jealousy, and distrust. These sentiments had undoubtedly very strongly operated against us on a recent occasion; but had the gentleman, to whose assistance we appealed, but rightly considered our peculiar situation, he must have been convinced there could not have existed a necessity for the unkind treatment he was pleased to offer to our little squadron; and he would have spared me at this moment the unwelcome talk of making this comparison, by which the world will perceive what I must have felt upon that occasion.

      A very strict taboo was on this day to be enforced over all the island, and required that the respective chiefs should retire to their own estates, for the purpose of rigidly observing the attendant solemnities; which were to continue two nights and one day. In the event of the omen's proving favorable, the chiefs would be permitted to eat of such pork as they might think proper to consecrate on this occasion; and high poory, that is, grand prayers would be performed; but should the omens be otherwise, the rites were instantly to be suspended.

      I had frequently expressed to Tamaahmaah a desire of being or sent on some of these occasions; and he now informed me, that he had obtained for me the consent of the priests, provided I would, during the continuance of the interdiction, attend to all the restrictions which their religion demanded.

      Having readily promised to comply with this condition, I was with some degree of formality visited by several of the principals of their religious order, one of whom was distinguished by the appellation of Eakooa, no Tamaahmaah; meaning the god of Tamaahmaah. This priest had been one of our frequent attendants, notwithstanding which, he was, on this occasion, detected in Stealing a knife; for which offence he was immediately dismissed from our party, and excluded from the precincts of our encampment.

      The restraints imposed consisted chiefly in four particulars; first, a total seclusion from the company of the women; secondly, partaking of no food but such as was previously consecrated; thirdly, being confined to the land, and not being afloat, or wet with sea water; and fourthly, not receiving, or even touching, the most trivial article from any one, who had not attended the ceremonies at the morai.

      These restrictions were considered necessary to be observed by the whole of our party resident on shore; and about sun-set we attended the summons of the king at the morai, who was there officiating as high priest, attended by some of the principal residents of their religious orders, chanting an invocation to the setting fun. This was the commencement of these sacred rites; but as I propose to treat this subject more fully on a future occasion, I shall for the present postpone the detail of my observations, and briefly state, that their prayers seemed to have some regularity and form, and that they did not omit to pray for the welfare of His Britannic Majesty, and our safe and happy return to our native country. A certain degree of order was perceptible throughout these ceremonies, accompanied by many superstitious and mysterious formalities; amongst which, a very principal one was performed about the dawn of day. At this time the most profound silence was required of every creature within hearing of this sacred place. The

king then repeated a prayer in a low tone of voice with the greatest solemnity, and in the middle of it he took up a live pig tied by the legs, and with one effort dashed it to death against the ground: an operation which must be performed without the smallest interruption or cry from the victim, or without the prevailing silence being broken by any noise whatsoever, though of the most trivial kind. This part of the service is supposed to announce their being on terms of friendship with the gods, on which the further ceremonies were carried into execution. A number of hogs, plantains, and cocoa-nuts, were then consecrated for the principal chiefs and priests; the more common productions, such as fish, turtle, fowls, dogs, and the several esculent roots, that compose their food during the intervals between these more sacred taboo's, were not now served up, but for the first time since our arrival, they fared sumptuously on those more delicious articles. The intermediate day and the second night were passed in prayer, during which we found no difficulty in complying with the prescribed regulations; and soon after the sun arose on the 14th, we were absolved from any further attention to their sacred injunctions.

      Most of our Indian friends returned to our party the following day; and as we all now fed alike on consecrated pork, they were enabled to be infinitely more sociable. Our mode of cookery was generally preferred, as far as related to the dressing of fish, flesh, or fowls; but with respect to roots and the bread fruit, they certainly preserved a superiority.

      Tahowmotoo was amongst the most constant of our guests; but his daughter, the disgraced queen, seldom visited our side of the bay. I was however not ignorant of her anxious desire for a reconciliation with Tamaahmaah; nor was the same wish to be misunderstood in the conduct and behaviour of the king, in whose good opinion and confidence I had now acquired such a predominancy, that I became acquainted with his most secret inclinations and apprehensions.

      His unshaken attachment and unaltered affection for Tahowmannoo, was confessed with a sort of internal self conviction of her innocence. He acknowledged with great candour, that his own conduct had not been exactly such as warranted his having insisted upon a separation from his

queen; that although it could not authorize, it in some measure pleaded in excuse for, her infidelity; and, for his own, he alledged, that his high rank and supreme authority was a sort of licence for such indulgences.

      An accommodation, which I considered to be mutually wished by both parties, was urged in the strongest terms by the queen's relations. To effect this desirable purpose, my interference was frequently solicited by them; and, as it concurred with my own inclination, I resolved on embracing the first favorable opportunity to use my best endeavours for bringing a reconciliation about. For although, on our former visit, Tahowmannoo had been regarded with the most favorable impressions, yet, whether from her distresses, or because she had really improved in her personal accomplishments, I will not take upon me to determine, but certain it is, that one, or both of these circumstances united, had so far prepossessed us all in her favor, and no one more so that myself, that it had been long the general wish to see her exalted again to her former dignities. This desire was probably not a little heightened by the regard we entertained for the happiness and repose of our noble and generous friend Tamaahmaah; who was likely to be materially affected not only in his domestic comforts, but in his political situation, by receiving again and reinstating his consort in her former rank and consequence.

      I was convinced, beyond all doubt, that there were two or three of the most considerable chiefs of the island, whose ambitious views were inimical to the interests and authority of Tamaahmaah; and it was much to be apprehended, that if the earned solicitations of the queen's father (whose condition and importance was next in consequence to that of the king) should continue to be rejected, there could be little doubt of his adding great strength and influence to the discontented and turbulent chiefs, which would operate highly to the prejudice, if not totally to the destruction, of Tamaahmaah's regal power; especially as the adverse party seemed to form a constant opposition, consisting of a minority by no means to be despised by the executive power, and which appeared to be a principal constituent part of the Owhyhean politics.

      For these substantial reasons, whenever he was disposed to listen to such discourse, I did not cease to urge the importance and necessity of his adopting measures so highly essential to his happiness as a man, and to his power, interest, and authority as the supreme chief of the island. All this he candidly acknowledged; but his pride threw impediments in the way of a reconciliation which were hard to be removed. He would not of himself become the immediate agent; and although he considered it important that the negociation should be conducted by some one of the principal chiefs in his fullest confidence, yet, to solicit their good offices after having rejected their former overtures with disdain, was equally hard to reconcile to his feelings. I stood nearly in the same situation with his favorite friends; but being thoroughly convinced of the sincerity of his wishes, I spared him the mortification of soliciting the offices he had rejected, by again proffering my services. To this he instantly consented, and observed that no proposal could have met his mind so completely; since, by effecting a reconciliation through my friendship, no umbrage could be taken at his having declined the several offers of his countrymen, by any of the individuals; whereas, had this object been accomplished by any one of the chiefs, it would probably have occasioned jealousy and discontent in the minds of the others.

      All, however, was not yet complete; the apprehension that some concession might be suggested, or expected on his part, preponderated against every other consideration; and he would on no account consent, that it should appear that he had been privy to the business, or that it had been by his desire that a negociation had been undertaken for this happy purpose, but that the whole should have the appearance of being purely the result of accident.

      To this end it was determined, that I should invite the queen, with several of her relations and friends, on board the Discovery, for the purpose of presenting them with some trivial matters, as tokens of my friendship and regard; and that, whilst thus employed, our conversation should be directed to ascertain, whether an accommodation was still an object desired. That on this appearing to be the general wish, Tamaahmaah

would instantly repair on board in a hasty manner, as if he had something extraordinary to communicate; that I should appear to rejoice at this accidental meeting, and by instantly uniting their hands, bring the reconciliation to pass without the least discussion or explanation on either side. But from his extreme solicitude left he should in any degree be suspected of being concerned in this previous arrangement, a difficulty arose how to make him acquainted with the result of the proposed conversation on board, which could not be permitted by a verbal message; at length after some thought he took up two pieces of paper, and of his own accord made certain marks with a pencil on each of them, and then delivered them to me. The difference of these marks he could well recollect; the one was to indicate, that the result of my inquiries was agreeable to his wishes, and the other that it was the contrary. In the event of my making use of the former, he proposed that it should not be sent on shore secretly, but in an open and declared manner, and by way of a joke, as a present to his Owhyhean majesty. The natural gaiety of disposition which generally prevails amongst these islanders, would render this supposed disappointment of the king a subject for mirth, would in some degree prepare the company for his visit, and completely do away every idea of its being the effect of a preconcerted measure.

      This plan was accordingly carried into execution on the following monday. Whilst the queen and her party, totally ignorant of the contrivance, were receiving the compliments I had intended them, their good humour and pleasantry were infinitely heightened by the jest I proposed to pass upon the king, in sending him a piece of paper only, carefully wrapped up in some cloth of their own manufacture, accompanied by a message: importing, that as I was then in the act of distributing favors to my Owhyhean friends, I had not been unmindful of his majesty.

      Tamaahmaah no sooner received the summons, than he hastened on board, and with his usual vivacity exclaimed before he made his appearance, that he was come to thank me for the present I had sent him, and for my goodness in not having forgotten him on this occasion. This was heard by every one in the cabin before he entered; and

all seemed to enjoy the joke except the poor queen, who appeared to be much agitated at the idea of being again in his presence. The instant that he saw her his countenance expressed great surprize, he became immediately silent, and attempted to retire; but having posted myself for the especial purpose of preventing his departure, I caught his hand, and joining it with the queen's, their reconciliation was instantly completed. This was fully demonstrated, not only by the tears that involuntarily stole down the cheeks of both as they embraced each other, and mutually expressed the satisfaction they experienced; but by the behaviour of every individual present, whose feelings on the occasion were not to be repressed; whilst their sensibility testified the happiness which this apparently fortuitous event had produced.

      A short pause produced by an event so unexpected, was succeeded by the sort of good humour that such a happy circumstance would naturally inspire; the conversation soon became general, cheerful, and lively, in which the artifice imagined to have been imposed upon the king bore no small share. A little refreshment from a few glasses of wine, concluded the scene of this successful meeting.

      After the queen had acknowledged in the most grateful terms the weighty obligations she felt for my services on this occasion, I was surprized by her saying, just as we were all preparing to go on shore, that she had still a very great favor to request; which was, that I should obtain from Tamaahmaah a solemn promise, that on her return to his habitation he would not beat her. The great cordiality with which the reconciliation had taken place, and the happiness that each of them had continued to express in consequence of it, led me at first to consider this intreaty of the queen's as a matter of jest only; but in this I was mistaken, for notwithstanding that Tamaahmaah readily complied with my solicitation, and assured me nothing of the kind should take place, yet Tahowmannoo would not be satisfied without my accompanying them home to the royal residence, where I had the pleasure of seeing her restored to all her former honours, and privileges, highly to the satisfaction of all the king's friends; but to the utter mortification of those, who, by

their scandalous reports and misrepresentations, had been the cause of the unfortunate separation.

      The domestic affairs of Tamaahmaah having thus taken so happy a turn, his mind was more at liberty for political considerations; and the cession of Owhyhee to His Britannic Majesty became now an object of his serious concern. On my former visit it had been frequently mentioned, but was at that time disapproved of by some of the leading chiefs; who contended, that they ought not voluntarily to surrender themselves, or acknowledge their subjection, to the government of a superior foreign power, without being completely convinced that such power would protect them against the ambitious views of remote or neighbouring enemies. During our absence this subject had been most seriously discussed by the chiefs in the island, and the result of their deliberations was, an unanimous opinion, that, in order to obtain the protection required, it was important that Tamaahmaah should make the surrender in question, formally to me, on the part of His Majesty; that he should acknowledge himself and people as subjects of the British crown; and that they should supplicate that power to guard them against any future molestation.

      To this act they were greatly stimulated by the treatment they had received from various strangers, by whom they had been lately visited. Of some of these I was well persuaded they had had too just cause to complain; particularly in the fraudulent and deceitful manner in which the traffic with the natives had been conducted.

      In many instances, no compensation whatever had been given by these civilized visitors, after having been fully supplied, on promise of making an ample return, with the several refreshments of the very best quality the country afforded. At other times they had imposed upon the inhabitants, by paying them in commodities of no service or value, though their defects were indetectable by the examination of the natives. This was more particularly the case in those articles which they were most eager to obtain, and most desirous to possess, namely, arms and ammunition; which chiefly composed the merchandize of the North-West American

adventurers. Muskets and pistols were thus exchanged that burst on being discharged the first time, though with the proper loading. To augment the quantity of gunpowder which was fold, it was mixed with an equal, if not a larger, proportion of pounded sea or char-coal. Several of these fire-arms, and some of the powder, were produced for my inspection in this shameful state, and with the hope that I was able to afford them redress.

      Many very bad accidents had happened by the bursting of these fire-arms; one instance in particular came within our knowledge a few days after our arrival. A very fine active young chief had lately purchased a musket, and on his trying its effect, with a common charge of powder, it burst; and he not only lost some of the joints of his fingers on the left hand, but his right arm below the elbow, was otherways so dangerously wounded, that, had it not been for the timely assistance afforded him by some of our gentlemen of the faculty, his life would have been in imminent danger.

      The putting fire-arms into the hands of uncivilized people, is at best very bad policy; but when they are given in an imperfect and insufficient condition for a valuable consideration, it is not only infamously fraudulent, but barbarous and inhuman. Notwithstanding which, should these inhabitants resort to measures of revenge for the injuries thus sustained, they would be immediately stigmatized with the epithets of savages and barbarians, by the very people who had been the original cause of the violence they might think themselves justified in committing.

      Under a conviction of the importance of these islands to Great Britain, in the event of an extension of her commerce over the pacific ocean, and in return for the essential services we had derived from the excellent productions of the country, and the ready assistance of its inhabitants, I lost no opportunity for encouraging their friendly dispositions towards us; notwithstanding the disappointments they had met from the traders, for whose conduct I could invent no apology; endeavouring to impress them with the idea, that, on submitting to the authority and protection of a

superior power, they might reasonably expect they would in future be less liable to such abuses.

      The long continued practice of all civilized nations, of claiming the sovereignty and territorial right of newly discovered countries, had heretofore been assumed in consequence only of priority of seeing, or of visiting such parts of the earth as were unknown before; but in the case of Nootka a material alteration had taken place, and great stress had been laid on the cession that Maquinna was stated to have made of the village and friendly cove to Sen^r. Martinez. Notwithstanding that on the principles of the usage above stated, no dispute could have arisen as to the priority of claim that England had to the Sandwich islands; yet I considered, that the voluntary resignation of these territories, by the formal surrender of the king and the people to the power and authority of Great Britain, might probably be the means of establishing an incontrovertible right, and of preventing any altercation with other states hereafter.

      Under these impressions, and on a due consideration of all circumstances, I felt it to be an incumbent duty to accept for the crown of Great Britain the proffered cession; and I had therefore stipulated that it should be made in the most unequivocal and public manner.

      For this purpose all the principal chiefs had been summoned from the different parts of the island, and most of them had long since arrived in our neighbourhood. They had all become extremely well satisfied with the treatment they had received from us; and were highly sensible of the advantages they derived from our introducing amongst them only such things as were instrumental to their comfort, instead of warlike stores and implements, which only contributed to strengthen the animosities that existed between one island and another and enabled the turbulent and ambitious chiefs to become formidable to the ruling power. They seemed in a great measure to comprehend the nature of our employment, and made very proper distinctions between our little squadron, and the trading vessels by which they had been so frequently visited; that these were engaged in pursuits for the private emolument of the individuals concerned, whilst those un-

der my command acted under the authority of a benevolent monarch, whole chief object in sending us amongst them was to render them more peaceable in their intercourse with each other; to furnish them with such things as could contribute to make them a happier people; and to afford them an opportunity of becoming more respectable in the eyes of foreign visitors.

      These ideas at the same time naturally suggested to them the belief, that it might be in my power to leave the Chatham at Owhyhee for their future protection; but on being informed that no such measure could possibly be adopted on the present occasion, they seemed content to wait with patience, in the expectation that such attention and regard might hereafter be shewn unto them; and in the full confidence that, according to my promise, I would represent their situation and conduct in the most faithful manner, and in the true point of view that every circumstance had appeared to us.

      These people had already become acquainted with four commercial nations of the civilized world; and had been given to understand, that several others similar in knowledge and in power existed in those distant regions from whence these had come. This information, as may reasonably be expected, suggested the apprehension, that the period was not very remote when they might be compelled to submit to the authority of some one of these superior powers; and under that impression, they did not hesitate to prefer the English, who had been their first and constant visitors.

      The formal surrender of the island had been delayed in consequence of the absence of two principal chiefs. Commanow, the chief of Aheedoo, was not able to quit the government and protection of the northern and eastern parts of the country, though it had been supposed he might have delegated his authority to some one of less importance than himself; but after some messages had passed between this chief and Tamaahmaah, it appeared that it had not been possible to dispense with his presence in those parts of the island.

      The other absentee was Tamaahmotoo, chief of Koarra, the person that had captured the Fair American schooner, and with whom I was

not ambitious to have much acquaintance. Since that perfidious melancholy transaction, he had never ventured near any vessel that had visited these shores; this had been greatly to the prejudice of his interest, and had occasioned him inconceivable chagrin and mortification. Of this he repeatedly complained to Tamaahmaah on our former visit; and then, as now, solicited the king's good offices with me to obtain an interview, and permission for his people to resort to the vessels, for the sake of sharing in the superior advantages which our traffic afforded. But, to shew my utter abhorrence of his treacherous character, and as a punishment for his unpardonable cruelty to Mr. Metcalf and his crew, I had hitherto indignantly refused every application that had been made in his favor. When, however, I came seriously to reflect on all the circumstances that had attended our reception and treatment at this island, on our former visit and on the present occasion; when I had reference to the situation and condition of those of our countrymen resident amongst them; and when I recollected that my own counsel and advice had always been directed so to operate on their hasty violent tempers, as to induce them to subdue their animosities, by exhorting them to a forgiveness of past injuries, and proving to them how much their real happiness depended upon a strict adherence to the rules of good fellowship towards each other, and the laws of hospitality towards all such strangers as might visit their shores, I was thoroughly convinced, that implacable resentment, or unrelenting anger, exhibited in my own practice, would ill accord with the precepts I had endeavoured to inculcate for the regulation of theirs; and that the adoption of conciliatory measures, after having evinced, by a discrimination of characters, my aversion to wicked or unworthy persons, was most consistent with my duty as a man, and with the station I then filled.

      In order therefore to establish more firmly, if possible, the friendship that had so mutually taken place, and so uninterruptedly subsisted, between us, I determined, by an act of oblivion in my own mind, to efface all former injuries and offences. To this end, and to shew chat my conduct was governed by the principles I professed, at the re-

quest of Tianna and some other chiefs I admitted the man amongst us, who was reputed to be the first person who had stabbed Captain Cook, and gave leave also to Pareea* to visit the vessels; who during the late contests had been reduced from his former rank and situation, and was at this time resident on an estate belonging to Kahowmotoo on the eastern part of the island, in a very low and abject condition.

      Tamaahmotoo had already suffered very materially in his interest, and had sensibly felt the indignity offered to his pride, in being excluded from our society, debarred the gratification of his curiosity, and the high entertainment which his brethren had partaken at our tables, and in our company. I gave Tamaahmaah to understand, that these considerations, in conjunction with his repeated solicitations, had induced me no longer to regard Tamaahmotoo as undeserving forgiveness, and to allow of his paying us the compliments he had so repeatedly requested; provided that he would engage, in the most solemn manner, that neither himself nor his people (for he generally moved with a numerous train of attendants) would behave in any manner so as to disturb the subsisting harmony of our present society, nor conduct themselves, in future, but with a due regard to honesty, and the principles of hospitality.

      To these conditions I was given to understand, Tamaahmotoo would subscribe without a murmur; and, on their being imparted to him, I received in reply a most humble and submissive answer, that he would forfeit his own existence if any misdemeanor, either on the part of himself, or of any of his followers, should be committed. The district over which his authority regularly extended, was the next district immediately to the northward of us; but his apprehensions left we should retaliate the injuries he had done to others, had induced hint to retire to the eastern parts of Amakooa, as being the most remote from our station. His progress towards Karakakooa, since his visit had been permitted, had been very flow; and as he had advanced he had frequently sent forward messengers, to inquire if I still continued the same friendly disposition towards him; and to request that I would return a renewal of my promises, that he should be received in the

same friendly manner as I had engaged myself he should to Tamaahmaah. Having no intention whatever to depart from this obligation, I felt no difficulty in repeating these assurances as often as they were demanded.

      My promises, however, were not sufficient to remove his suspicions, or to fix his confidence; but on his way he stopped at every morai, there made sacrifices, and consulted the priests as to what was portended in his visit by the omens on these occasions. At first they had been very unfavorable, but as he advanced the prognosticks had become more agreeable to his wishes; and at length, in the morning of the 19th, he appeared in great pomp, attended by a numerous fleet of large canoes that could not contain less than a thousand persons, all paddling with some order into the bay, round its northern point of entrance.

      Tamaahmaah was at this time with me, and gave me to understand, that Tamaahmotoo generally went from place to place in the style and manner he now displayed, and that he was the proudest man in the whole island.

      After the fleet had entered the bay, its course was slowly directed towards the vessels; but on a message being sent from me, desiring that Tamaahmotoo and his party would take up their residence at Kowrowa, he instantly retired with his fleet, and soon afterwards, accompanied by Tamaahmaah, and several of the principal chiefs, he visited the encampment. At this time I happened to be absent, but on my return I found him seated in our marquee, with several of our intimate friends, and some strangers, who were all in the greatest good humour imaginable, and exhibiting a degree of composure that the savage designing countenance of Tamaahmotoo could not even affect. Not the least difficulty could arise in distinguishing this chief from the rest of the company, as his appearance and deportment were a complete contrast to the surrounding group, and confirmed in our opinions the unworthiness of his character, and every report to his disadvantage that had been circulated by his countrymen.

      Our first salutation being over, he caught the earliest opportunity to offer an apology for the offence that had so justly kept us strangers to each other. He complained of having been very ill treated by the crews of

some vessels that had visited Toeaigh bay, and particularly of his having been beaten by Mr. Metcalf, commanding the Eleonora, at the time when his son, who afterwards had the command of the Fair American, was on board the former vessel; and alledged, that the indignities he then received had stimulated him to have recourse to the savage barbarity, before recited, towards the younger Mr. Metcalf and his people, by a sentiment of resentment and revenge; but that he entertained no such wicked designs against any one else; and that his future behaviour, and that of his dependants, would confirm the truth of the protestations he then made. After calling upon the several chiefs to vouch for the sincerity of his intentions, and making every concession that could be expected of him for his late unpardonable conduct, his apprehensions seemed to subside, as his friends appeared to give him credit for his assertions, and came forward as sureties for the propriety of his future behaviour.

      This subject having been fully discussed, and concluded, I shook Tamaahmotoo by the hand as a token of my forgiveness and reconciliation; and on confirming this friendly disposition towards him by presenting him with a few useful articles, approbation and applause were evidently marked in the countenance of every one present.

      By the time this conciliatory interview was at an end, the dinner was announced; and as our consecrated pork was exhausted, Tamaahmaah had taken care to provide such a repast, consisting of dogs, fish, fowls, and vegetables, as was suitable to the keen appetites of our numerous guests. The day was devoted to mirth and festivity; and the king, Terrymitee, Tahowmotoo, Tianna, and, indeed, all our old acquaintances, took their wine and grog with great cheerfulness, and in their jokes did not spare our new visitor Tamaahmotoo, for his awkwardness and ungraceful manners at table.

      The glass went freely round after dinner; and as this ceremony was completely within the reach of Tamaahmotoo's imitation, he was anxious to excel in this accomplishment, by drinking with less reserve than any one at table. I thought it proper to remind him, that as he was not in the habit of drinking spirituous liquors like Tamaahmaah and the other

chiefs present, it was necessary he should be upon his guard, left the wine and grog should disagree with him; but as his spirits became exhilarated he became less attentive to these admonitions, until the operation of the liquors obliged him to retire. In this state it is not possible to imagine a countenance more expressive of indignation, or of savage barbarity and resentment; his eyes were fixed on me as he was carried out of the marquee, whilst his tongue, no longer confined within his lips, indistinctly uttered attoou-anni, signifying that I had poisoned him; and some present, even of our old acquaintance, seemed to be a little concerned for his safety. The king, however, laughed at their apprehension, and explained to them the cause of Tamaahmotoo's indisposition, which, by the assistance of a little warm water, was almost instantly removed, and he re-joined our party, to the great entertainment and diversion of his countrymen, who were still very pleasantly regaling themselves, and in the perfect enjoyment of each other's society.

      In the front of the marquee, seated on the ground, were two or three of Tamaahmotoo's most confidential friends and constant attendants. The behaviour of these people, on their master being taken from table, suddenly changed, from the most unreserved vivacity to a suspicious silence; their eyes sparkled, and their countenances were expressive of distrust and resentment; one of them in particular, who I had not observed before to be armed, had with him a dagger, made out of the broad part of an iron spit, which he handled with great agitation, and seemed to be more than half inclined to make use of it, to gratify the revenge that was struggling within his breast. This man contended, in a snort conversation with Tamaahmaah, that Tamaahmotoo had been given a different bottle to drink out of from the rest of the company; but on the king and other persons drinking some wine from the same bottle, he became pacified; and the recovery of the intoxicated chief completely did away his suspicions of our having entertained towards his master any unfavorable intentions.

      On this occasion, however, I could not avoid reflecting, how indispensably necessary it is, that the greatest circumspection and caution

should be observed in our intercourse with such strangers, unaccustomed to our manners and way of life; because it may frequently happen, that the most disastrous and fatal consequences may arise from causes the least to be apprehended, and in themselves of the most innocent nature. Notwithstanding that in the instance before us nothing uncomfortable took place, yet I was firmly persuaded that we were greatly indebted for our tranquillity, on this occasion, to the great respect and esteem which our conduct towards these people had previously insured us; but had it unfortunately so happened, that Tamaahmotoo had died under the effects of the liquor to which his constitution was unused, and of which he had drank inordinately, our having poisoned him would have been generally received as a fact; whence the natives, naturally concluding that we had been guilty of the most unwarrantable treachery, they would have been pardonable in seeking revenge; and under such impressions ought rather to have been considered as intitled to our pity for being mistaken; than to our resentment for any acts of injury which the misunderstanding might have occasioned,

      The convocation of the principal chiefs of the island by the royal mandate, sailed not to assemble at the same time most of the persons of consequence of both sexes, who took up their residence in our immediate neighbourhood; which became so populous, that there was scarcely a place where a temporary habitation could be erected that remained unoccupied, especially in the vicinity of the two principal villages of Kakooa and Kowrowa. Their numbers amounted now to several thousands, whose cheerful good humour, eagerness to oblige, and orderly behaviour, could not be surpassed by the inhabitants of the most civilized country. The days passed pleasantly to those who devoted them to innocent amusements, and profitably to others who were engaged in bartering away the merchandize they had brought, to exchange for our more valuable commodities; whilst those of our society who extended, their recreation on shore, beyond the limits of the bay, were received with the greatest hospitality, and entertained with the general amusements of the country; which rendered these excursions not less interesting than contributory to health.

      The evenings were generally closed with singing and dancing, and the

nights were as quiet as the most orderly towns in Europe; though it was a late hour most commonly before they retired to rest. The space between sun-set and that time was employed by some parties in social conversion, and by others at various games of chance; and I did not observe a single instance in which these were conducted, even by the losers, but with the greatest temper and good humour.

      Desirous of being constantly upon the spot, left any untoward circumstance should arise to interrupt the happiness we enjoyed, my excursions were confined to a small distance from our encampment. This however did not preclude my attending some of their evening amusements in our neighbourhood. At one of which, in particular, I was very well entertained.

      This was a performance by a single young woman of the name of Puckoo, whose person and manners were both very agreeable. Her dress, notwithstanding the heat of the weather, consisted of an immense quantity of thin cloth, which was wound round her waist, and extended as low as her knees. This was plaited in such a manner as to give a pretty effect to the variegated pattern of the cloth; and was otherways disposed with great taste. Her head and neck were decorated with wreaths of black, red, and yellow feathers; but excepting these she wore no dress from the waist upwards. Her ancles, and nearly half way up her legs, were decorated with several folds of cloth, widening upwards, so that the upper parts extended from the leg at least four inches all round; this was encompassed by a piece of net work, wrought very close, from the meshes of which were hung the small teeth of dogs, giving this part of her dress the appearance of an ornamented funnel. On her wrists she wore bracelets made of the tusks from the largest hogs. These were highly polished and fixed close together in a ring, the concave sides of the tusks being outwards; and their ends reduced to a uniform length, curving naturally each way from the center, were by no means destitute of ornamental effect.

      Thus equipped, her appearance on the stage, before she uttered a single word, excited considerable applause from the numerous spectators, who observed the greatest good order and decorum. In her performance, which was in the open air, she was accompanied by two men,

who were seated on the ground in the character of musicians. Their instruments were both alike, and were made of the outsides or shells of large gourds, open at the top; the lower ends ground perfectly flat, and as thin as possible, without endangering their splitting. These were struck on the ground, covered with a small quantity of dried grass, and in the interval between each stroke, they beat with their hands and fingers on the sides of these instruments, to accompany their vocal exertions, which, with the various motions of their hands and body, and the vivacity of their countenances, plainly demonstrated the interest they had, not only in excelling in their own parts, but also in the applause which the lady acquired by her performance, advancing or retreating from the musicians a few short steps in various directions, as the nature of the subject, and the numerous gestures and motions of her person demanded. Her speech, or poem, was first began in a flow, and somewhat solemn manner, and gradually became energetic, probably as the subject matter became interesting; until at length, like a true actress, the liveliness of her imagination produced a vociferous oration, accompanied by violent emotions. These were received with shouts of great applause; and although we were not sufficiently acquainted with the language to comprehend the subject, yet we could not help being pleased in a high degree with the performance. The music and singing was by no means discordant or unpleasing; many of the actions seemed to be well adapted, and the attitudes exhibited both taste and elegance. The satisfaction we derived at this public entertainment, was greatly increased by the respectful reception we met from all parties, as well performers as spectators, who appeared to be infinitely more delighted by our plaudits, than by the liberal donations which we made on the occasion.

      These amusements had hitherto been confined to such limited performances; but this afternoon was to be dedicated to one of a more splendid nature, in which some ladies of consequence, attendants on the court of Tamaahmaah, were to perform the principal parts. Great pains had been taken, and they had gone through many private rehearsals, in order that the exhibition this evening might be worthy of

the public attention; on the conclusion of which I purposed by a display of fire-works, to make a return for the entertainment they had afforded us.

      About four o'clock, we were informed it was time to attend the royal dames; their theatre, or rather place of exhibition, was about a mile to the southward of our tents, in a small square, surrounded by houses and sheltered by trees; a situation as well chosen for the performance, as for the accommodation of the spectators; who, on a moderate computation, could not be estimated at less than four thousand, of all ranks and descriptions of persons.

      A difference in point of dress had been observed in the audience at the former entertainment, but on this occasion every one shone forth in the best apparel that could be procured; those who had been successful in their commercial transactions with us, did not sail to appear in the best attire they had procured; and such as were destitute of European articles, had exerted their genius to substitute the manufacture and productions of their own country in the most fashionable and advantageous manner. Feathered ruffs, or gartering tape in wreaths, adorned the ladies' heads, and were also worn as necklaces; red cloth, printed linen, or that of their own manufacture, constituted the lower garment, which extended from the waist to the knees. The men likewise had put on their best maros; so that the whole presented a very gay and lively spectacle.

      On our arrival, some of our friends were pleased to be a little jocular with our appearance at so unfashionable an hour, having come much too early for the representation; but as we were admitted into the green room amongst the performers, our time was not unpleasantly engaged. The dress of the actresses was something like that worn by Puckoo, though made of superior materials, and disposed with more taste and elegance. A very considerable quantity of their finest cloth was prepared for the occasion; of this their lower garment was formed, which extended from their waist half way down their legs, and was so plaited as to appear very much like a hoop petticoat. This seemed the most difficult part of their dress to adjust, for Tamaahmaah, who was considered

to be a profound critic, was frequently appealed to by the women, and his directions were implicitly followed in many little alterations. Instead of the ornaments of cloth and net-work decorated with dogs' teeth, these ladies had each a green wreath made of a kind of bind weed, twisted together in different parts like a rope, which was wound round from the ankle, nearly to the lower part of the petticoat. On their wrists they wore no bracelets nor other ornaments, but across their necks and shoulders were green sashes, very nicely made, with the broad leaves of the tee, a plant that produces a very luscious sweet root, the size of a yam*. This part of their dress was put on the last by each of the actresses; and the party being now fully attired, the king and queer, who had been present the whole time of their dressing, were obliged to withdraw, greatly to the mortification of the latter, who would gladly have taken her part as a performer, in which she was reputed to excel very highly. But the royal pair were compelled to retire, even from the exhibition, as they are prohibited by law from attending such amusements, excepting on the festival of the new year. Indeed, the performance of this day was contrary to the established rules of the island, but being intended as a compliment to us, the innovation was admitted.

      As their majesties withdrew, the ladies of rank, and the principal chiefs, began to make their appearance. The reception of the former by the multitude was marked by a degree of respect that I had not before seen amongst any inhabitants of the countries in the pacific ocean. The audience assembled at this time were standing in rows, from fifteen to twenty feet deep, so close as to touch each other; but these ladies no sooner approached their rear, in any accidental direction, than a passage was instantly made for them and their attendants to pass through in the most commodious manner to their respective stations, where they seated themselves on the ground, which was covered with mats, in the most advantageous situation for seeing and hearing the performers. Most of these ladies were of a corpulent form, which, assisted by their stately gait, the dignity with which they moved, and the number of their pages, who followed with fans to court the refreshing breeze, or with fly-flaps to disperse the offending insects, announced their consequence as the wives,

daughters, sisters, or other near relations of the principal chiefs, who however experienced no such marks of respect or attention themselves; being obliged to make their way through the spectators in the best manner they were able.

      The time devoted to the decoration of the actresses extended beyond the limits of the quiet patience of the audience, who exclaimed two or three times, from all quarters, "Hoorah, hoorah, poaliealee," signifying, that it would be dark and black night before the performance would begin. But the audience here, like similar ones in other countries, attending with a pre-disposition to be pleased, was in good humour, and was easily appealed, by the address of our faithful and devoted friend Trywhookee, who was the conductor of the ceremonies, and sole manager on this occasion. He came forward, and apologized by a speech that produced a general laugh, and causing the music to begin, we heard no further murmurs.

      The band consisted of five men, all standing up, each with a highly-polished wooden spear in the left, and a small piece of the same material, equally well finished, in the right hand; with this they beat on the spear, as an accompaniment to their own voices in songs, that varied both as to time and measure, especially the latter; yet their voices, and the founds produced from their rude instruments, which differed according to the place on which the tapering spear was struck, appeared to accord very well. Having engaged us a short time in this vocal performance, the court ladies made their appearance, and were received with shouts of the greatest applause. The musicians retired a few paces, and the actresses took their station before them.

      The heroine of the piece, which consisted of four parts or acts, had once shared the affections and embraces of Tamaahmaah, but was now married to an inferior chief, whose occupation in the household was that of the charge of the king's apparel. This lady was distinguished by a green wreath round the crown of the head; next to her was the captive daughter of Titeeree; the third a younger sister to the queen, the wife of Crymamahoo, who being of the most exalted rank stood in the middle. On each side of these were two of inferior quality, making in all seven actresses.

      They drew themselves up in a line fronting that side of the square that was occupied by the ladies of quality and the chiefs. These were completely detached from the populace, not by any partition, but, as it were, by the respectful consent of the lower orders of the assembly; not one of which trespassed or produced the lead inaccommodation.

      This representation, like that before attempted to be described, was a compound of speaking and singing; the subject of which was enforced by appropriate gestures and actions. The piece was in honor of a captive princess, whose name was Crycowculleneaow; and on her name being pronounced, every one present, men as well as women, who wore any ornaments above their waist, were obliged to take them off, though the captive lady was at least sixty miles distant. This mark of respect was unobserved by the actresses whilst engaged in the performance; but the instant any one sat down, or at the close of the act, they were also obliged to comply with this mysterious ceremony.

      The variety of attitudes into which these women threw themselves, with the rapidity of their action, resembled no amusement in any other part of the world within my knowledge, by a comparison with which I might be enabled to convey some idea of the stage effect thus produced; particularly in the three first parts, in which there appeared much correspondence and harmony between the tone of their voices, and the display of their limbs. One or two of the performers being not quite so perfect as the rest, afforded us an opportunity of exercising our judgment by comparison; and it must be confessed, that the ladies who most excelled, exhibited a degree of graceful action, for the attainment of which it is difficult to account.

      In each of these first parts the songs, attitudes, and actions, appeared to me of greater variety than I had before noticed amongst the people of the great South Sea nation, on any former occasion. The whole, though I am unequal to its description, was supported with a wonderful degree of spirit and vivacity; so much indeed that some of their exertions were made with such a degree of agitating violence, as seemed to carry the performers beyond what their strength was able to sustain; and had the performance finished with the third act, we should have retired from their

theatre with a much higher idea of the moral tendency of their drama, than was conveyed by the offensive, libidinous scene, exhibited by the ladies in the concluding part. The language of the song, no doubt, corresponded with the obscenity of their actions; which were carried to a degree of extravagance that were calculated to produce nothing but disgust, even to the most licentious.

      This hooarah occupied about an hour, and concluded with the descending fun, it being contrary to law that such representations should continue after that time of day. The spectators instantly retired in the most orderly manner, and dispersed in the greatest good humour; apparently highly delighted with the entertainment they had received. But as the gratification I had promised on this occasion required the absence of light, and could not be exhibited to advantage until a late hour, the multitude were permitted to re-assemble in our neighbourhood soon afterwards for this purpose.

      Our exhibition commenced about seven in the evening, and as we still possessed a considerable variety of fire-works in a tolerably good state of preservation, an ample assortment was provided; and on being thrown off, they produced from the expecting multitude such acclamations of surprize and admiration from all quarters, as may be easily imagined to arise from the feelings of persons totally unacquainted with objects of such an extraordinary nature. Tamaahmaah fired the two first rockets; but there were only one or two of the chiefs who had courage sufficient to follow his example; and it was observed amongst those who were near us at the time, that in these apprehension was more predominant than pleasure. The whole concluded with some excellent Bengal-lights, which illuminating the neighbourhood to a great distance, almost equal to the return of day, seemed to produce more general satisfaction than the preceding part of the exhibition; and on its being announced, that the light was shewn to conduct them safely to their respective habitations, the crowd retired; and in the space of half an hour the usual stillness of the night was so completely restored, that it would rather have been imagined there had not been a single stranger in our neighbourhood, than that thousands had so recently departed.

      As the number of these strangers had increased, so a gradual augmentation of the king's nightly guard had taken place; but on this evening the guards were at least doubled, and in number amounted to about forty, armed with pallaloos and iron daggers, and stationed in different places about the royal residence.

      This having been the twelfth day's absence of Mr. Menzies and his party, and having far exceeded the limits of time that I expected their proposed excursion could have required, I began to be anxious left some accident or indisposition had detained them in the interior country; (being perfectly satisfied that there was not the least danger to be apprehended from the natives,) especially as I had received only one note from the party, and that on the commencement of their journey from the south point of the island; and although their excursion had not at that time been attended with the expedition I could have wished, yet I had reason before now to have expected their return.

      The period of our departure being fast approaching, in order that we might be in readiness to sail on the arrival of the party, I directed that every thing should be prepared the next morning for embarking such matters as we had on shore. Most of the principal chiefs having, as usual, joined our party at breakfast, the highest satisfaction and admiration was expressed at the exhibition that closed the entertainments of the preceding day; whilst the preparations that were making for our departure occasioned a universal regret. It was well known that I had already exceeded the time of my intended stay, and that the hour would come when a separation must inevitably take place, and probably never to meet again. Such were the topics of our conversation round the breakfast table, when information was brought that a cartridge box, which the centinel had suffered to lie carelessly about, had been stolen from on board the Chatham. On this unpleasant circumstance being first reported, Tamaahmaah seemed to be indifferent as to its recovery; alledging that the centinel had been much in fault in not having taken proper care of his accoutrements. His reasoning was undoubtedly correct, and I would willingly have passed the transgression unnoticed, rather than have risked the chance of any interruption to our present harmony;

had not the uniform negative that I had put upon every solicitation from these people, for arms or ammunition, and which was only to be supported by saying, that all such articles belonged to His Majesty King George, and that they were strictly tabooed, rendered it absolutely necessary that I should insist on the restitution of the thing stolen.

      The conversation that this unlucky incident produced, drew for a short time a veil of gloom over the cheerfulness which had generally pre although this was extremely unpleasant at so interesting a period, it attended with the good effect of stimulating the king to send Kahowmotoo in quest of the cartridge-box, who, in about half an hour, brought it to us. It had been found in the house of Cavaheeroo, the chief of the district of Kaoo, and the principal person at the village Kowrowa; but of the thief, who was a woman, no tidings could be procured; as she had either made her escape, or was protected under the peculiar privileges with which that village is endowed, in giving protection to offenders of various descriptions, whilst they remain within its precincts.

      The accoutrement however being restored, with its contents undiminished and in good order, all parties were instantly reconciled, and our society brought back to its former standard of harmony and good spirits; though it was apparent that the latter had received some little check, in consequence of the indications of the near approach of our departure, by the removal of our several matters from the shores to the vessels.

      In the afternoon, intelligence was brought that our travellers had reached the summit of Mowna Roa, and that they were on their way back; but, from the native who brought us this information, it appeared, that they would yet be some days before they arrived, as they intended to return by land, and the roads they had to pass were very indifferent.

      Having resumed my residence on board the ship, I was on friday complimented with a formal visit from all the great personages in the neighbourhood, except Cavaheeroo; who, having accepted the stolen cartridge-box, I considered as an accessary in the theft, and on that account I would not permit him to enter the ship. This exception was no small mortification to his pride, nor disappointment to his interest, as none of his associates

returned to the shore without a handsome token of my esteem. Tamaahmotoo, and his retinue, though less deserving of such marks of attention, and with little claim to any acknowledgment from me, were not omitted, but received such presents as their respective conditions and the occasion seemed to demand. With this party had come a daughter of Tamaahmaah, about nine years of age. She had not visited us when we were here before, nor had we ever seen her until the arrival of Tamaahmotoo, to whose charge she had some time since been entrusted for the purpose of being educated and brought up agreeably to the custom of these islands. She bore a striking likeness to her father, and though far from being handsome, had an expressive intelligent countenance, and was a very cheerful and engaging girl.

      All the chiefs that were expected being now assembled, I inquired of the king when the proposed voluntary cession of the island was to be confirmed. A short conversation immediately took place between Tamaahmaah and some of his counsellors then present; the result of which was, that as a taboo-poory was to commence on the evening of the ensuing sunday, and would continue until tuesday morning, they were unanimously of opinion, that it would be highly proper to embrace that opportunity of reconsulting the priests, that each might be fully satisfied with the propriety of the measure they were about to adopt. Tamaahmaah at the same time requested, that I would attend him at the grand morai during the interdiction.

      This was a reply that I did not altogether like, nor did I expect it, as they were all convinced how anxious I now was to take my departure. A final appeal to the priests, however, I was given to understand, could not be dispensed with; and as there was little probability of the party from Mowna Roa returning much before that time, I was induced to promise that I would comply with their wishes.

      There appeared little reason to believe that the cession would not be made, although some previous ceremonies were still wanting, before they would be enabled to make the surrender in form, which at this time was fixed for the following tuesday; immediately after which, I informed them, I should sail with the land wind for Tyahtatooa and Toeaigh,

to the former, for the purpose of more particularly examining the anchorage, and to the latter for the purpose of procuring such a further stock of refreshments as we could conveniently take; well knowing that we ought to place little dependence on the precarious supply that Mowee, Woahoo, or the rest of the islands to leeward might afford. The whole of the party did me the favor to say, that they would remain on board until we quitted Owhyhee.

      I was very much concerned to find, that my earnest endeavours to bring about a reconciliation, and to establish peace amongst these islands, had proved unsuccessful. The mutual distrust that continued to exist amongst the people of the several islands, which I had foreseen to be the greatest difficulty there was to combat, and which I had apprehended would be an insurmountable obstacle, had proved fatal to the attainment of this desirable object. Immediately on my arrival here, I inquired if my letter from Mowee had been received, and received an answer in the negative. But I was given to understand, that a small party from that island had arrived on the western side of Owhyhee, whose object was suspected to be that of seizing on some of the inhabitants there, for the purpose of taking them away, and of sacrificing them in their religious rites at Mowee; and some reports went so far as to assert that this diabolical object had been effected. On further inquiry, however, this fact appeared to be by no means established; as it was positively insisted on by some, and by others as positively denied. One circumstance, however, both parties agreed in, that of the people from Mowee having been under the necessity of making a hasty retreat. I could not under stand that any chief was in the neighbourhood of the place where they had landed; and Tamaahmaah himself, either from a conviction that they had been unfairly dealt with, or that I should disapprove of the suspicious narrow policy that had influenced the conduct of his people on this occasion, was unwilling to allow that he had been made duly acquainted with their arrival, and was always desirous of avoiding the subject in conversation.

      After many attempts to fix his attention, I at length explained to him what was the result of my negociation with the chiefs at Mowee; and

he then seemed to concur in opinion with me, that the party from Mowee who had landed on the western side of Owhyhee, could be no other than the embassy charged with my letter, and inverted with powers to negcciate for a general pacification.

      It was some time before I was able to make myself thoroughly master of these circumstances; yet long before; I had ascertained with any tolerable precision what was the state of the business, I was perfectly convinced that no overtures of this nature would be attended with success, and that nothing but by my passing backwards and forwards between the several islands in the manner before stated, would answer any good purpose; could I have done this, I entertained no doubt of accomplishing this desirable object; but neither our circumstances nor our time would admit of my engaging in this talk, particularly at the present season of the year, when very boisterous weather usually prevails amongst these islands, against which we should occasionally have been obliged to beat to windward. Our sails, rigging, and probably our masts, would necessarily have suffered in point of wear and tear, even should we have been so fortunate to have avoided any material damage, by accident; and as our stock of those essential articles, even with the supply we had received from port Jackson, which was very short of what I had requested, demanded the greatest œconomy and care to make them last, without subjecting us to unpleasant and even disastrous circumstances, during our progress in the unaccomplished part of our voyage; I was under the necessity of declining any further personal interference, notwithstanding that I was satisfied the happiness and tranquillity of many thousands might have been secured, at least for a time, could I have undertaken this important business.

      This conviction did not sail to claim a great share of my attention; but the execution of the several important objects of our voyage that yet remained unfinished, and which were of an extensive nature, compelled me to give up all thoughts of secondary considerations. The completion of our business that appertained to the north pacific ocean, I had so far hopes of effecting in the course of the ensuing season, that I had not demanded the return of the Dædalus with a further supply of stores, nor

indeed was it certain that such a supply could have been obtained from port Jackson; we had therefore to rely on the dispensations of Divine Providence, and our own care and frugality, for the accomplishment of the remaining part of our survey with the stores we had still remaining.

      Tamaahmaah having become acquainted with our intended route from Karakakooa, and being watchful to embrace every opportunity by which he could continue his good offices, either for our present comfort, or our future welfare, ordered one of his principal domestics to depart immediately for Toeaigh; there to provide according to his directions such things as we stood in need of, and to have them in readiness for embarkation on our arrival.

      After these, and other less important arrangements had been made relative to our departure, the king with his companions returned to the shore. About this time the gentlemen made their appearance from Mowna Roa, having descended from the mountains in a straight line to the sea shore, from whence they had returned by water; but had not this been their route, their journey hither would have occupied some few days more. At first sight of the travellers I regretted the delay I had so recently consented to; but it was now too late to retract, especially as, on the most trivial occasions, I had made it a point to perform all promises made to these people with scrupulous punctuality. Two or three days therefore were not of sufficient importance to us, to induce my breaking in upon the arrangements I had just made with Tamaahmaah; who would easily have discovered, that no new cause had arisen for any alteration in our plan; and I therefore determined to remain contented until tuesday, when the restrictions of the taboo were to cease. This afforded an opportunity to some of the officers, whose attention to their several duties had confined them hitherto to the sea shore, to make a short excursion into the adjacent country.

      The building of Tamaahmaah's vessel was now so far advanced, that I considered its completion an easy task for his people to perform under the direction of Boid, who most probably had, by his attention to our carpenters, added some information to his former knowledge in shipbuilding. Her frame was completely fixed, and all that remained to be

done was some part of the planking, and sitting up her inside according to the taste and fancy of Tamaahmaah. Having no doubt but all this would be effected with little difficulty by themselves, on saturday our carpenters were ordered to repair on board with their tools. Besides the assistance I had afforded in building the hull of the vessel, I had furnished Tamaahmaah with all the iron work she would further require; oakum and pitch for caulking, proper masts, and a set of schooner sails, with canvass, needles, and twine to repair them hereafter. With respect to cordage, they had a sufficiency of their own manufacture for her rigging, schooner fashion, and every other necessary purpose.

      Tamaahmaah was exceedingly well pleased, and thankful for our exertions; and it was extremely gratifying to my feelings to reflect, that such valuable opportunities should have offered for bestowing this gratification upon the king, and many essential benefits upon his people; all of whom were now well convinced, that these superior advantages were only to be obtained by the constant exercise of the same honesty and civility, by which these had been secured to them on the present occasion.

      Very little doubt can be entertained of the exalted pleasure Tamaahmaah would enjoy in the attainment, by honorable means, of so desirable an object as his new schooner; especially at those times, when his mind recurring to the virtuous causes that had given him so valuable a possession, he would naturally make a comparison between them, and the criminal measures pursued by Tamaahmotoo for a similar acquisition; which he had no sooner possessed by treachery and barbarity, than he was deprived of it with indelible marks of infamy, and the loss of his reputation and character.

      On sunday evening, agreeably to my promise, I accompanied Tamaahmaah to the morai, and submitted to all the forms, regulations, and restrictions of the taboo. The ceremonies were similar to those I had before observed, though they were more concise, less formal, and attended by fewer persons.

      I was not on this, as on the former occasion, purely an idle spectator; but was in some degree one of the actors. Whilst in the morning the principal ceremonies and prayers were performing, I was called upon to

give my opinion on several matters that were agitated at one time by the king, and at others by the principal priests. Amongst these, was the propriety of their remaining at peace, or making war against the other islands? The cession of the island; and if by that voluntary measure, they would be considered as the subjects of Great Britain ? Under this impression, in what manner ought they to conduct themselves towards all strangers, as well those who might visit them from civilized nations, as the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands? With these, and some other questions of less importance, I was very seriously interrogated; and I made such answers to each as was consistent with my own situation, and, as I considered, were most likely to tend in future to their happiness and tranquillity.

      I was not prohibited in my turn from offering my suggestions, or demanding their attention to my requisitions. Anxious left. the object I had so long had in view should hereafter be defined; namely, that of establishing a breed of sheep, cattle, and other European animals in these islands, which with so much difficulty, trouble, and concern, I had at length succeeded so far as to import in good health and in a thriving condition; I demanded, that they should be tabooed for ten years, with a. discretionary power in the king alone to appropriate a certain number of the males of each species, in case that sex became predominant, to the use of his own table; but that in so doing the women should not be precluded partaking of them, as the intention of their being brought to the island was for the general use and benefit of every inhabitant of both sexes, as soon as their numbers should be sufficiently increased to allow of a general distribution amongst the people. This was unanimously approved of, and faithfully promised to be observed with one exception only; that with respect to the meat of these several animals, the women were to be put on the same footing as with their dogs and fowls; they were to be allowed to eat of them, but not of the identical animal that men had partaken, or of which they were to partake. Much conversation took place on these different subjects, when not otherways engaged in functions of a religious nature; all these ceasing at sun-

rise the next morning, I repaired on board, and found every thing in readiness for our departure.

      In the forenoon the king and queen, accompanied by Terreemytee the king's brother, Crymamahow, half brother to the king, and chief of the district of Amakooa; Kahowmotoo, father to the queen, and chief of the district of Kona; Kavaheeroo, chief of the district of Kaow; Tianna, chief of the district of Poona; Tamaahmotoo, chief of the district of Koarra; Trywhookoe, half brother to the king, and our most faithful protector and purveyor at the encampment; all assembled on board the Discovery, for the purpose of formally ceding and surrendering the island of Owhyhee to me for His Britannic Majesty, his heirs and successors; there were present on this occasion besides myself, Mr. Puget, and all the officers of the Discovery.

      Tamaahmaah opened the business in a speech, which he delivered with great moderation and equal firmness. He explained the reasons (already stated) that had induced him to offer the island to the protection of Great Britain; and recounted the numerous advantages that himself, the chiefs, and the people, were likely to derive by the surrender they were about to make. He enumerated the several nations that since Captain Cook's discovery of these islands had occasionally resorted hither, each of which was too powerful for them to resist; and as these visitors had come more frequently to their shores, and their numbers seemed to increase, he considered that the inhabitants would be liable to more ill treatment, and still greater impositions than they had yet endured, unless they could be protected against such wrongs by some one of the civilized powers with whose people they had become acquainted; that at present they were completely independent, under no sort of engagement whatever, and were free to make choice of that state which in their opinion was most likely by its attention to their security and interests, to answer the purpose for which the proposed surrender was intended. For his own part he did not hesitate to declare the preference he entertained for the king of Great Britain, to whom he was ready to acknowledge his submission; and demanded to know who had any objection to follow his example.

      This produced an harangue from each of the five chiefs, all of whom had some ideas to offer on this important subject.

      The warlike spirit and ambitious views of Kahowmotoo had long taught him to indulge the flattering hope, that on some future day he should be enabled to acquire the sovereignty of Mowee. This prompted him to state in a spirited and manly speech, that on their becoming connected and attached to so powerful a nation, they ought no longer to suffer the indignities which had been offered to their island Owhyhee by the people of Mowee; he also candidly enumerated the offences that Mowee had justly to complain of in return; but as these bore no proportion to her aggressions, he contended that she ought to be chastized, and that when a force for their protection should be obtained from England, the first object of its employment ought to be the conquest of Mowee; after which the care of its government should be intruded to some respectable chief, whose interest and inclination could be depended upon as being friendly towards Owhyhee.

      Kavaheeroo, a chief of a very different disposition, content with the station he filled, and the comforts he enjoyed, looked forward with pleasure to the consequences that were likely to result from the adoption of the measure proposed; having no doubt of its tending to their future safety and protection, which had now become highly expedient in some way to effect, and of its being the means of producing general pacification with their relations and friends, as he termed them, on the other islands.

      Tianna, after agreeing with Kahowmotoo, that Mowee ought to be chastized; and with Cavaheeroo, in the necessity of Owhyhee being protected; proposed that some persons, duly authorized for that purpose, should reside on shore by way of guards, and stated that a vessel or two would be requisite to defend them by sea. He very judiciously observed further, that so great a similarity existed between the people of the four nations with whom they were already acquainted, but more particularly so between the English and the Americans, that in the event of their present surrender being accepted, and of a vessel being sent out for their protection, they should be doubtful as to the reality of such

persons coming from England, unless some of the officers then present, or some of those on board the vessels with whom they were acquainted, and who they were convinced did belong to King George, should return to Owhyhee with the succours required. This appeared to him a measure of so much consequence that it could not be dispensed with, for otherways, any of the distant nations, knowing they had ceded the island to the English government, might send to them ships and men whom they had never before seen, and who, by asserting they had come from England and belonged to King George, would deceive them into the obedience of a people against whom they should afterwards most probably revolt.

      These were the prominent features in the several speeches made on the occasion; in every one of which their religion, government, and domestic œconomy was noticed; and it was clearly understood, that no interference was to take place in either; that Tamaahmaah, the chiefs and priests, were to continue as usual to officiate with the same authority as before in their respective stations, and that no alteration in those particulars was in any degree thought of or intended.

      These preliminaries being fully discussed, and thoroughly understood on both sides, the king repeated his former proposition, which was now unanimously approved of, and the whole party declared their consent by saying, that they were no longer Tanata no Owhyhee, (i. e.) the people of Owhyhee; but Tanata no Britannee, (i. e.) the people of Britain. This was instantly made known to the surrounding crowd in their numerous canoes about the vessels, and the same expressions were cheerfully repeated throughout the attending multitude.

      Mr. Puget, accompanied by some of the officers, immediately went on shore; there displayed the British colours, and took possession of the island in His Majesty's name, in conformity to the inclinations and desire of Tamaahmaah and his subjects. On this ceremony being finished, a salute was fired from the vessels, after which the following inscription on copper was deposited in a very conspicuous place at the royal residence.

      "On the 25th of february, 1794, Tamaahmaah, king of Owhyhee, in council with the principal chiefs of the island assembled on board His Britannic Majesty's sloop Discovery in Karakakooa bay, and in the

presence of George Vancouver, commander of the said sloop; Lieutenant Peter Puget, commander of his said Majesty's armed tender the Chatham; and the other officers of the Discovery; after due consideration, unanimously ceded the said island of Owhyhee to His Britannic Majesty, and acknowledged themselves to be subjects of Great Britain."

      Such a distribution of useful or ornamental articles was now made to the principal chiefs, their favorite women, and other attendants, as Tamaahmaah and myself esteemed to be suitable to their respective ranks and stations on this memorable occasion.

      Thus concluded the ceremonies of ceding the island of Owhyhee to the British crown; but whether this addition to the empire will ever be of any importance to Great Britain, or whether the surrender of the island will ever be attended with any additional happiness to its people, time alone must determine. It. was however a matter of great satisfaction to me, that this concession had not only been voluntary, but general; that it had not been suggested by a party, nor been the wish of a few, but the desire of every inhabitant with whom we had any conversation on the subject; most of these having attended the external ceremonies, without shewing any other signs than those of perfect approbation; and the whole business having been conducted by the king and his advisers with great steadiness, and in the most serious manner, left me no doubt of the sincerity of their intentions to abide strictly by their engagement.

      This transaction must ever be considered, under all the attendant circumstances, as of a peculiar nature; and will serve to shew that man, even in this rude uncultivated state, will not, except from apprehension or the most pressing necessity, voluntarily deliver up to another his legitimate rights of territorial jurisdiction.

      With respect to astronomical observations whilst at Karakakooa, our attention had been principally directed to the rates and errors of the chronometers; these on being landed the 21st of january, 1794, shewed

      The latitude, by twenty-one meridional altitudes of the sun, and three meridional altitudes of the stars, varying from 19° 27' 27" to 19° 28' 27", and differing 20" from the mean result of the observations made in the month of march, 1793, shewed by the mean result of both years, observations, the latitude to be 19° 28' 2".

CHAPTER II.

Quit Karakakooa — Visit Tyahtatooa and Toeaigh bays — Some description of the anchorage at those places — Examine the northern sides of Mowee, Woahoo, and Attowai — Observations on the anchorage at Attowai and Onehow — Leave the Sandwich islands.

      Nothing now remained to detain us in Karakakooa bay, the memorable spot where Captain Cook unfortunately fell a sacrifice to his undaunted and enterprising spirit. Notwithstanding it had, in that melancholy instance, proved fatal to one of the most illustrious navigators that the world ever produced, yet to us it had proved an asylum, where the hospitable reception, and friendly treatment were such as could not have been surpassed by the most enlightened nation of the earth. The unremitted attention in the superior classes, to preserve good order, and insure the faithful discharge of every service undertaken by the subordinate description of the people, produced an uniform degree of respect in their deportment, a cheerful obedience to the commands they received, and a strict observance and conformity to fair and honest dealing in all their commercial intercourse. Excepting in the instances of the table knives, the centinel's cartridge-box, and a few others of little moment, occasioned, very probably, by our want of discretion in leaving irresistible temptations in their way, we had little to complain of; and such circumstances of this nature as did occur, ought only to be considered as reflections on the particular individuals concerned, and not as generally characteristic of the whole people.

      All our friends were prepared to attend us; some were on board, and others were in their canoes, ready to follow the ship as soon as she got under sail. This was effected about three in the morning of wednesday. Accompanied by the Chatham, we directed our course, with a light land breeze, close along the shore, toward Tyahtatooa bay; the morning was delightfully pleasant, and the surrounding objects, whilst they attracted our attention, excited also our admiration. The country which, as we passed, rose with a gradual ascent from the sea shore, seemed to be in a high state of cultivation, and was interspersed with a great number of extensive villages; whilst our numerous companions on the surface of a serene tranquil ocean, fanned by a gentle breeze, to which some spread their sails, and the rest kept up with us by leisurely paddling along, added considerable beauty to the interesting scene, and exhibited, by this numerous population, that wealth which the improved state of this part of the island so strongly indicated. About eight o'clock we anchored in Tyahtatooa bay, in 15 fathoms water, sand and rocky bottom.

      According to Mr. Meares's account of Mr. Douglas's voyage, this place is represented as equal, if not superior, to Karakakooa, for secure anchorage; but to us it appeared in a very different point of view, as it is formed by a small bend only in the general direction of the coast, scarcely deserving the name of a bay. Its northernmost point from us bore by compass N. 69 w.; the village called Ane-oo-rooa, being the nearest shore, N. 30 E., about half a mile distant; and the point of Kowrooa S. 22 E. The station we had taken was as close to the land as we could with prudence He, and the bottom, in all directions where we founded, was a mixture of rocks and sand. A considerable swell rolled in from the westward, and by the beaten appearance of the rocks that chiefly com-posed the shore, this appeared to be in general the case; and for that reason not a very eligible resting place for shipping. It however possesses an advantage with respect to landing, superior to Karakakooa. This convenience is produced by the jutting out of two points; between these is a small cove, defended by some rocks lying before it, which break the violence of the surge, and render the communication with the shore very commodious. The landing is on a sandy beach, before a grove of cocoa

nut, bread fruit, and other trees, in the midst of which the village is situated. Towards the south part of this cove is a spring, which rose very rapidly from amongst some rocks that are generally covered with the sea water; but when this is low, which is sometimes the case, it is found to produce a stream of excellent fresh water; and there can be no doubt, by using proper means, that its current might be diverted, and made subservient to the domestic use of the neighbourhood, and to vessels refuting at Karakakooa, without their being under the necessity of submitting to the tardy process we were compelled to adopt; especially as the distance between the two places is only ten miles.

      The southern base of mount Worroray forms these shores. This mountain, with Mowna Kaah, and Mowna Roa, form each a large mass of elevated land, of which the island chiefly consists, though mount Worroray is the smallest.

      Accompanied by Tamaahmaah, some of the officers, and several of the chiefs, I visited the royal residence at this place; which consisted of three of the neatest constructed houses we had yet seen; but not having been constantly inhabited for some time past, they were not in good repair. This habitation of the king, like that at Karakakooa, was in the neighbourhood of a grand morai, close to the sea side. The morai was the most complete structure of the kind, and kept in the greatest order and repair, of any that had fallen under our observation. It was decorated with several statues, or idols, carved out of the trunks of large trees, and meant to imitate the human form; but they were the most gigantic and preposterous figures that can be imagined.

      Having satisfied our curiosity, we returned on board to dinner, which was purposely ordered of beef and mutton, to give all the chiefs an idea of the value of the animals I had imported, as articles of food; our party was numerous, and they unanimously agreed that both were excellent. The beef, though salted, seemed to have the preference in their opinion; the mutton was by most considered to be very similar in its taste to the flesh of their dogs, which they very highly esteem. The general opinion was taken by vote on the superior excellence of mutton to dog's flesh,

and the preference was decided in favor of mutton, only by the casting voice of Tamaahmaah.

      I was very anxious to quit this station, which is situated in latitude 19° 37½', longitude 203° 54½', left the rocky bottom should damage our cables; but light breezes from the sea, succeeded by calms, prevented our moving until midnight, when, with a gentle breeze from the shore, we proceeded slowly along the coast to the northward.

      In the forenoon of the 27th, we had a light breeze from the westward; with this we steered for the anchorage at Toeaigh, but a strong current setting to the south-westward, we approached it very slowly; the weather however was fair and pleasant, and the objects about us were cheerful and entertaining, notwithstanding the adjacent shores were uninteresting, being chiefly composed of volcanic matter, and producing only a few detached groves of cocoa nut trees, with the appearance of little cultivation, and very few inhabitants. The deficiency of the population on shore was amply compensated by the number of our friends that accompanied us afloat in canoes of all descriptions; these still preserving the same orderly behaviour and cheerful good humour, our change of situation was scarcely perceivable, as the same sociability and friendly intercourse continued which had existed at Karakakooa.

      As this evening was to be devoted to an appointed taboo that would continue until the morning of the 1st of march, the king and the rest of our friends went on shore for the purpose of attending their religious duties. The weather in the evening being equally, with variable winds and alternate calms, gave me reason to believe it very probable that we should not reach our destination before it was dark; on intimating this to Tamaahmaah, he promised to have a light placed in such a situation, as would conduct us to it with safety.

      It was not however until near four the next morning that we gained foundings, when we anchored in 30 fathoms water, sandy bottom. After it was day-light we removed to the best anchorage in this bay, whose north-west point bore by compass N. 36 W., and the morai, N. 68 E.; this is a conspicuous object, and a good leading mark to this anchorage; it is situated on a barren eminence to the southward of the village, and

is to be kept in a line with a small saddle hill, on the eastern land descending from the higher parts, over the village of Toeaigh, on the north side of this spacious open bay. Its south point descending gradually from Worroray, and forming a low point, bore by compass S. 31 W.; within this point on the rising land are some elevated hummocks; the third of these, from the point forming a kind of saddle hill in a line with a low, projecting, black, rocky point, in the middle of the bay, bearing S. 22 W., is a further direction, and a cross mark for this anchorage; from whence the watering place lies S. 79 E., a mile and a half distant. The summit of Mowna-kaah also bore by compass S. 68 E.; Mowna Roa, S. 33 E.; and Worroray, S. 5 W. In this situation the depth of water was 25 fathoms, the bottom a stiff clay, and good holding ground; incommoded by the patch of rocky bottom, stated on our former visit to be at the depth of to fathoms only; but on a more minute search, this was now discovered to shoal suddenly, and the depth to decrease to 7, 4, and 3 fathoms, about the fourth of a mile to the south-westward of the station we had taken; and consequently to be a very great inconveniency to the roadstead, which at best, in my opinion, is but a very indifferent one; being intirely exposed to the north-west winds, and the western oceanic swell, which beats with great violence on the reefs that encompass the shores. These reefs stretch out a mile or upwards, leaving between them and the land a narrow channel, that affords comfortable and commodious landing for small boats and canoes; but the landing is at too great a distance from the place of anchorage to allow of protecting any debarkation from the ship.

      The only circumstances that seem to render this a desirable stopping place, are the run of water, which however does not constantly flow; and the probability of procuring refreshments, from its contiguity to the fertile, and populous western part of the district of Koaarra, and the plains of Whymea, lying behind the land that constitutes this part of the sea coast.

      The country rises rather quickly from the sea side, and, so far as it could be seen on our approach, had no very promising aspect; it forms a kind of glacis, or inclined plane in front of the mountains, immediately

behind which the plains of Whymea are stated to commence, which are reputed to be very rich and productive, occupying a space of several miles in extent, and winding at the foot of these three lofty mountains far into the country. In this valley is a great tract of luxuriant, natural pasture, whither all the cattle and sheep imported by me were to be driven, there to roam unrestrained, to "increase and multiply" far from the fight of strangers, and consequently less likely to tempt the inhabitants to violate the sacred promise they had made; the observance of which, for the time stipulated in their interdiction, cannot sail to render the extirpation of these animals a task not easily to be accomplished.

      This day being devoted to their holy rites, the king, with all the provincial chiefs, remained in sacred retirement. The same cause operated to deprive us of the society of our other visitors, particularly the females, who are on no account permitted to be afloat on these occasions.

      The next morning the king, with all our friends, were again about the vessels. In the course of the day a further proof of the liberality of Tamaahmaah's disposition was given, by his presenting us with near an hundred hogs of the largest size, and as great a quantity of vegetables as both vessels could well dispose of; with offers of a further supply if these were insufficient.

      It was my intention to have sailed with the land wind in the evening, but Tamaahmaah pointing out that since thursday his engagements on shore had totally deprived him of our society; first by his attendance on their religious ceremonies, and afterwards in procuring and sending us the supplies we required; and soliciting, at the same time, in the most earnest manner, that the last day should be dedicated to the enjoyment of each other's company, I was induced to remain the following day, to prove to him that there was no indulgence in my power, compatible with my duty, that I would not grant, in return for the friendship and regard he had on all occasions manifested towards us, and that in the most princely and unlimited manner.

      The succeeding day was consequently passed in receiving farewell visits, and making farewell acknowledgments to our numerous friends; who all

expressed the high satisfaction they had experienced during our residence amongst them, and the deep regret they felt at our departure from the island; after which they were seen to steal away gently and reluctantly from a scene that had afforded them so many valuable acquirements, and so much pleasing entertainment. By sun-set nearly the whole group was dispersed in the several directions to which their inclinations or necessities led. The occurrences of this day did not pass over without producing some impressions on our sensibility, from the repeated ardent solicitations that we would come back to them again, and from the undisguised sincerity of the wishes and prayers that were offered up for our future happiness and prosperity.

      As our departure was to take place with the first breeze from the land, Tamaahmaah and his queen, unwilling to take leave until the very last moment, remained on board until near midnight, when they departed, with hearts too full to express the sensations which the moment of separation produced in each; with them their honest and judicious counsellors Young and Davis returned to the shore. The good sense, moderation, and propriety of conduct in these men, daily increased their own respectability, and augmented the esteem and regard, not only of the king and all his friends, but even of those who were professedly adverse to the existing government, and who consequently were at first inimical to their interest.

      As it was a great uncertainty, whether we should or should not return again to these islands, I had given these two worthy characters their choice of taking their passage with me to their native country, or of remaining on the island in the same situation which they had so long filled with credit to themselves, and with so much satisfaction to the king and the rest of the principal people. After mature consideration, they preferred their present way of life, and were desirous of continuing at Owhyhee; observing, that being destitute of resources, on their return home, (which, however, they spoke of in a way that did honor to their hearts and understandings) they must be again exposed to the vicissitudes of a life of hard labour, for the purpose of merely acquiring a precarious supply of the most common necessaries of life; objects which, for

some years past, had not occasioned them the least concern. Nor was it probable that they would be liable hereafter to any sort of inconvenience in those respects; for, besides the high reputation, and universal good opinion they had acquired amongst all classes of the inhabitants, they were now considered in the light of chiefs, and each of them possessed a considerable landed property. Here they lived happily, and in the greatest plenty; and, to their praise be it spoken, the principal object they seemed to have in view was, to correct by gentle means the vices, and encourage by the most laudable endeavours the virtues, of these islanders; in this meritorious undertaking they had evidently made some progress, and there are reasonable grounds to believe, that, by steadily pursuing the same line of conduct, it will in time have a due influence on the general character of these people. From us they received every attention that could serve to raise them in the estimation of the natives: and such an assortment of useful articles for promoting their comforts, as it was in our power to afford.

      Our faithful shipmate Terehooa, who, to the last moment, conducted himself with the greatest integrity and propriety, was also left very advantageously situated, under the protection of the king and his old master Kahowmotoo, with a large assortment of useful implements, and ornamental articles; and being firmly attached to Young and Davis, to whom he could be very useful, and who had it in their power to serve him in return, his future prospects in life seemed to have been much improved by his excursions in the Discovery, of which he seemed very sensible, and which he gratefully acknowledged.

      Thus concluded our transactions at Owhyhee, to which we bad adieu about three in the morning of monday the 3d of march, very highly indebted for our reception, and the abundant refreshments we had procured. These essential comforts I should have entertained no doubt would, in future, have been administered to all visitors who should conduct themselves with common honesty and proper decorum, had we not left behind us a banditti of renegadoes, that had quitted different trading vessels in consequence of disputes with their respective commanders, who had resorted to this island since the preceding year,

under American or Portuguese colours. Amongst them was one Portuguese, one Chinese, and one Genoese, but all the rest appeared to be the subjects of Great Britain, as seemed also the major part of the crew of the brig Washington, although they called themselves Americans. These latter persons, in the character of sailors, amounting to fix or seven in number, had taken up their abode with different chiefs of some power and consequence, who esteemed these people as great acquisitions, from their knowledge of fire-arms; but as no one of them could produce any testimonials of their former good conduct, or even make out a plausible character for himself or his comrades, it is much to be apprehended they may be the means of creating intestine commotions, by inciting the jealousy, and furthering the ambitious views of the haughty chiefs, with whom they are resident. Their machinations to the prejudice of the existing government, however, will prove ineffectual, unless they should be able to elude the watchful attention of Young and Davis; who are both well aware of the danger they ought to be prepared to meet; and whose fidelity to Tamaahmaah, I had every reason to believe, was not of a nature to be shaken by the most flattering temptations.

      That these apprehensions were well founded I could not entertain the least doubt; for soon after my arrival at Owhyhee, I received, by Young, a letter from Mr. William Brown, commanding the Butterworth of London, complaining heavily of a similar set of vagabonds, residing at Woahoo and at Attowai, who had, at the latter place, taken up arms in support of an inferior chief, against the authority of Taio and Titeeree, the sovereigns of that island; and had so far forgotten their allegiance, and the rules which humanity, justice, and common honesty prescribe, as to concert, with the natives of Attowai, a plan for the capturing of an American brig, called the Hancock. This was to have been effected by scuttling her under water, which would induce the crew to suppose the had sprung a very bad leak; when these renegadoes were to advise her being hauled on shore, for the purpose of saving from her as much as possible; and when in this situation, she would be completely in the power, and at the disposal, of the natives. But, happily for those in the vessel, although she was near sinking, in consequence of a hole cut in

her counter by some unknown hand, the rest of the diabolical scheme was detected before the contrivers had time or opportunity to carry it into execution, and by the exertions of the crew the vessel was saved.

      Mr. Brown stated further, that by the bad advice, and far worse example, of these people, the natives of most of the leeward islands had arrived at such a degree of daring insolence, as rendered any communication with them from small vessels, or even anchoring near the shores, highly dangerous; and that he trusted it might be within the limits of my authority to take from these islands such improper and dangerous associates.

      I represented in the strongest terms to Tamaahmaah, all the bad consequences that were likely to result from those people remaining on Owhyhee; but no arguments could prevail upon him, or the chiefs, to deliver them up. Their knowledge in the use and management of fire-arms, made their services of such importance, that it was evident nothing but compulsion would have any effect; and to have resorted to such a measure, in which I was by no means certain how far I should be justifiable, would necessarily have produced a breach, and destroyed that harmony which we had taken so much pains to establish, and care to preserve. In addition to which, these people were stated to possess landed property in the island, and to have conformed to the laws, both civil and religious. Nor had any specific charge been exhibited against the seven sailors living on Owhyhee, like that produced by Mr. Brown against those at Attowai and Woahoo.

      With Kavaheeroo also resided a person by the name of Howell, who had come to Owhyhee in the capacity of a clerk on board the Washington; he appeared to possess a good understanding, with the advantages of an university education, and had been once a clergyman in England, but had now secluded himself from European society: so that with Young, Davis, and Boid, there were now eleven white men on the island; but, excepting from these latter, I much fear that our Owhyhean friends will have little reason to rejoice in any advantages they will receive from their new civilized companions.

      To Young and Davis I delivered such testimonials of their good conduct as I considered them fully intitled to, for the purpose of securing to them the respect and confidence of future visitors, who would be warned by them of the snares and dangers they were liable to, from the evil-disposed, civilized or savage inhabitants of the country.

      The land wind blew faintly, and our progress from Owhyhee was so flow, that an opportunity was afforded to a few small canoes from the shores of Koaarra to visit us as we passed; but we did not recognize any of the chiefs, or our former acquaintances. Towards noon the sea breeze reached us, with which we stood to windward, in order to pass to the north of the east point of Mowee; this engaged our time until after noon on the following day, when we bore away along the north side of that island.

      In this route we fell in with the south-east side of Mowee, near to the station where our survey had commenced the preceding year; and in beating round the western part of the island, which does not terminate in a projecting point, but forms a large rounding promontory, we very anxiously looked out for the harbour mentioned by Captain King, as reported by the natives to exist in that neighbourhood; but nothing was seen that could warrant such a representation, excepting two small open coves, situated on each fide of the eastern extremity of the island; these, answering all the purposes of the inhabitants with their canoes, probably induced them to suppose that such accommodations were all we required. Off this eastern extremity, which, according to our observations, is situated in latitude 20° 44½', longitude 203° 58', and bearing by compass from the north-west point of Owhyhee N. 7 W., at the distance of 9 leagues, lies a small islet, with some rocks between it and the more. To the north of this islet is a remarkably elevated hummock, rising almost perpendicularly from the sea, but gradually descending in a slope in land; it was covered with a pleasing verdure, and occupied by several houses, but destitute of trees or shrubs. The adjacent country; which was moderately elevated, presented a fertile appearance, and seemed to be thickly inhabited, as far back as the foot of those mountains that compose the eastern part of the island. As we passed this rounding pro-

montory, some detached rocks were noticed lying about half a mile from the shore, along which we sailed at a distance from two to four miles, and found it a little indented, and chiefly composed of steep rugged cliffs.

      The wind being light, enabled a few of the natives to visit us during the afternoon, but they had little with them to dispose of; in the evening they returned home, and at dark we hauled off the shore in order to preserve our station for continuing our survey. The next morning we again stood in for the land, passing the deep bay that bounds the northern side of the isthmus, which connects the two lofty ranges of mountains that form the island of Mowee. A very heavy surf beat on the low sandy shores of the bay, from whence a few of the natives, as ill appointed for barter as the former, paid us a visit.

      From these people we understood that Titeeree was at Woahoo, and that Taio was at Morotoi; but that Namahanna, who in the absence of Titeeree had been left in charge of the government, accompanied by three or four other chiefs and some inferior people, were unfortunately in a house that contained the major part of the gunpowder Titeeree possessed, when it took fire and blew up. By this accident Namahanna, with two other chiefs and some of the people, had been killed, and all the rest had been very badly wounded. This house appeared, by their account, to have been appropriated by Titeeree as a magazine; that the accident had happened only a few days before our arrival, and that some of the persons who had been hurt had since died of their wounds.

      A fine breeze from the N. E., with clear and pleasant weather, brought, us by noon up to the north-west point of Mowee. The observed latitude at this time was 21° 7', longitude 203° 23'. The point bore by compass S. 8 W., distant four miles; off this lie an islet and some rocks, at a small distance from the shore, which is steep and cliffy. Having thus completed our intended survey of Mowee, we stood over, and brought to within about half a league of the north-east point of Morotoi, in the expectation of seeing Taio; for whom, as well as for Titeeree, I had reserved some sheep, for establishing the breed in each of the islands. Taio, we had understood, resided some where hereabouts, and

some of the natives who came off to us repeated this intelligence, but added that the day being taboo poory, it was impossible we should receive a visit from him.

      We continued nearly stationary for three hours, in the hope of obtaining some vegetables, but none were to be procured; at five we made sail, and as the Chatham the preceding year had examined the north side of this island, our course was directed for the north-east side of Woahoo; which at day-light the succeeding morning bore by compass from W. to S. 27 W., and Morotoi, from S. 32 E. to S. 45 E. We continued our survey from what we had formerly examined on the southern part of this side of the island, and shortly after noon we passed its north point; which, according to our observations, is in latitude 21° 42½, longitude 202° 1'; the former being three miles further south, and the latter fourteen miles further west, than the situation of that point as laid down by Captain King; our present survey however, corresponded with our former observations, as to the position of the south-east point of Woahoo; and made this side of the island four miles longer than Captain King's delineation; and agreed better with our estimated distance between Woahoo and Attowai. In every other respect our examination confirmed the remarks of Captain King; excepting, that in point of cultivation or fertility, the country did not appear in so flourishing a state, nor to be so numerously inhabited, as he represented it to have been at that time, occasioned most probably by the constant hostilities that had existed since that period.

      My intentions were to have stopped near the run of water off which the Resolution and Discovery had anchored, called by the natives Whymea, and rendered memorable by the fatal catastrophe that had awaited the commander and the astronomer of the Dædalus. Here I was in expectation of procuring an interview with Titeeree, who we had been informed was then in this neighbourhood; but learning from a few of the inhabitants, who visited us in a small, shabby, single canoe, that he was gone to Whyteete, and there being at this time a very heavy north-west swell that broke incessantly, and with great violence, on all the adjacent shores, to which from their greatly exposed situation they seemed very liable; and having also finished our survey; we quitted Woahoo, and

directed our course towards the north-east part of Attowai, which at day-light in the morning bore by compass from N. 84 W. to S. 40 W. As we approached its shores, the same influence was felt from a northerly current, as we had before experienced; but the wind being to the southward, it did not prevent our passing to the north of the island, which, at noon, bore by compass from S. 75 W. to S. 25 E.; and the north-east extremity of the island, extending from the forked hill mentioned on our last visit hither, S. 13 E., distant three miles and a half. In this situation the observed latitude was 22° 15', longitude 200° 36'. Here we rejoined the American brig Washington, which had sailed with us from Karakakooa, but had directed her course to the southward of the islands, for Whyteete in Woahoo, where she had remained five days. Amongst other articles that Mr. Kendrick had procured whilst there, was eighty pounds weight of very fine bees wax, that had drifted by the sea on to the shores of that island, and had very recently been picked up by the natives; and I now understood that some pieces had also been procured from the natives of the other islands by Mr. Kendrick, who in a great measure confirmed the account contained in Mr. Brown's letter to me, of the very improper conduct of the merchant seamen who had deserted, or otherways quitted the vessels to which they had belonged, for the purpose of residing amongst these islanders. In this number were some whom he had formerly left at Attowai, but he now seemed to be determined that they should no longer remain on that island.

      The wind during the afternoon was light and variable, consequently we made little progress. In the course of the day we procured a small supply of hogs, yams, and vegetables. At sun-set a small islet lying near the shore, and situated from the north-east point of the island N. 55 W., six miles and a half distant, bore by compass S. 33 W., about two miles from us, and the shores of the island, which are alternately cliffs and beaches, bore from S. 50 E. to S. 71 W.

      The night was passed as usual in preserving our station, and in the morning we again stood in for the land; about eight o'clock we were off a small deep bay; its east point lies from the above islet west, distant four

miles; this bay is nearly half a league wide, and about the same depth; but being exposed to the violence of the north-westerly winds, and the oceanic swell, is ineligible for shipping, and therefore we did not examine it further; but continued our route with a fine breeze from the N. E. at the distance of about two miles from the shore, passing some rocks and breakers, that extend a small distance from the west point of the bay; where the coast of Attowai assumes a very rugged and romantic appearance, rising suddenly to lofty abrupt cliffs, that jet out into a variety of steep, rugged, rocky points, apparently destitute of both soil and verdure, but terminating nearly in uniform even summits, on which, as well as in the vallies or chasms that were formed between the points, were small patches of lively green that produced a very singular effect. This fort of coast continued to the north-west point of the island. As we approached this point, the regular trade wind being intercepted by these lofty shores, we were retarded by light variable breezes, and were frequently becalmed. At noon the observed latitude was 22° 12', longitude 200° 10½'. The island of Onehow bore by compass from S. 31 W. to S. 44 W.; Oreehooa, S. 51 W.; and Attowai, from N. 78 E. to S. 9 E.; its north-west point being the nearest shore, S. 37 E., distant three miles. From this point the country assumed a very different aspect; it descended suddenly from the mountains, and terminated in a low sandy shore, somewhat diversified by eminences, and a few scattered habitations, but wearing a steril and desolate appearance.

      In the afternoon we were favored with a gentle northerly breeze, which by sun-set brought us to the west point of the island, situated, according to our observations, in latitude 22°, longitude 200° 10'; off which extends a reef of rocks, about half a mile from the shore.

      Having now completed the survey of Attowai, we met the regular trade wind, with which we stood to windward for Whymea bay, in that, island; where, at nine the next morning, we anchored in 23 fathoms, soft bottom, and moored with a cable each way; the points of the bay bore by compass N. 77 W. to S. 65 E: the river S. 35 E., distant half a league. Here we again met the Washington; Mr. Kendrick, having beaten round the east end of the island, had arrived two days before us.

      Our arrival was soon known, and we were early visited by many of our former friends and acquaintances. Amongst the number were the two young women I had brought from Nootka and settled here; during our late absence they had been treated with great kindness and civility, yet they were both very apprehensive that, on our finally quitting these seas, the attentive behaviour they had hitherto experienced would be discontinued. I however embraced the first opportunity of obtaining from all the principal chiefs the most solemn assurances of the contrary.

      We found Enemo, who had now changed his name to Wakea, still alive, and though in a somewhat better state of health than when we last left him, he was yet in a most deplorably emaciated condition.

      Since our late departure, Enemo had attempted to acquire the supreme authority in the government of these islands, independent of Titeeree and Taio. To effect this object he had been assisted by Mr. Kendrick's people, and the rest of the European and American renegadoes; in whose support and knowledge in the use of fire-arms he had placed the greatest reliance, and had been induced to declare and consider his independency as certain. These proceedings soon reached the ear of Titeeree, who sent a chief and a party of men to inquire into the cause of so sudden an alteration, and to know if it were countenanced by the chiefs and people of the island, amongst whom the regent had not been considered as very popular. But the intentions of these unfortunate people being supposed to be hostile to the interest or views of Enemo, they were met as they approached the shore, and, without any previous inquiry into the nature of their errand, were opposed by a small party of Enemo's adherents conducted by the renegadoes, who, with their muskets drove them with great slaughter from the island, and pursued them in their slight until they left very few to relate the unfortunate issue of their embasssy, to Titeeree; and the untimely fate of those who had fallen, to their inquiring relations and friends. This melancholy event would not, most probably, have happened, had not these strangers advised and assisted in the perpetration of this diabolical and unprovoked barbarity; in extenuation of which they plead, that they were compelled to act this

savage part in order to preserve the good opinion of, and keep themselves in favor with, the chief.

      The Butterworth arriving at Woahoo shortly after the return of this unfortunate expedition, Titeeree solicited Mr. Brown to take him to Attowai for the purpose of effecting, in an amicable way, an accommodation with this rebellious chief. With this Mr. Brown complied, and after an explanatory interview on board his ship, all matters were compromised to the mutual satisfaction of both parties; and since that period the island has enjoyed tranquillity, though it still remained under the government of Enemo as regent.

      But to return. We received an early visit from Enemo and Tamooerrie, accompanied only by a few chiefs, but by a great number of women, who were, for the most part, of some consequence, and attendants on his court. From the regent and prince I received a present of a few indifferent hogs, though, according to their assertions, they were some of the best on the island. The stock of these animals, they said, by the great demand from the trading vessels for them for some time past, had been much reduced; and judging from the small number that were brought for sale, we had no reason to discredit their information. A supply of vegetables was what we had principally depended upon procuring here, and in this expectation it appeared we were likely to be more successful; though the yams, by far the best species for sea store, were also very scarce.

      During the afternoon the trade wind blew a very strong gale; it moderated for a few hours in the evening, but in the night was attended by heavy gusts from the N.N.E. A continuance of this weather, although it did not prevent, much retarded the natives, in their passage from the shore to the ships with the supplies we required, until the afternoon of the 11th; when it becoming more moderate, I paid my respects to the regent at his residence on shore, in consequence of an invitation to an evening amusement, Which, from the description of it by the natives, was very different from those I had before attended.

      Having been disappointed in seeing either Titeeree or Taw, I took this opportunity of depositing with Enemo the breeding sheep I had intend ed for those chiefs; giving him to understand, that in proportion as they

multiplied they were to be distributed amongst the other islands; and the produce of them were put under the same restrictions as I had exacted at Owhyhee; with all which, himself, and the chiefs then present, very seriously promised to comply.

      On our arrival at the place of exhibition, we found the performers assembled, consisting of a numerous throng, chiefly of women, who were dressed in their various coloured clothes, disposed with a good effect. The entertainment consisted of three parts, and was performed by three different parties, consisting of about two hundred women in each, who ranged themselves in five or six rows, not standing up, nor kneeling, but rather sitting upon their haunches. One man only advanced a few feet before the centre of the front row of the ladies, who seemed to be the hero of the piece, and, like a flugal man, gave tone and action to the entertainment. In this situation and posture they exhibited a variety of gestures, almost incredible for the human body so circumstanced to perform. The whole of this numerous group was in such perfect unison of voice and action, that it were impossible, even to the bend of a finger, to have discerned the least variation. Their voices were melodious, and their actions were as innumerable as, to me, they are undescribable; they exhibited great case and much elegance, and the whole was executed with a degree of correctness not easily to be imagined. This was particularly striking in one part, where the performance instantly changed from a loud full chorus, and vast agitation in the countenances and gestures of the actors, to the most profound silence and composure; and instead of continuing in their previous erect attitude, all fell down as it were lifeless, and in their fall buried themselves under their garments; conveying, in some measure, the idea of a boisterous ocean becoming suddenly tranquillized by an instant calm. The great diversity of their figured dresses on this occasion had a particularly good effect; the several other parts were conducted with the same correctness and uniformity, but were less easy to describe. There appeared to be much variety and little repetition, not only in the acting of the respective sets, but in the whole of the three parts; the performers in which, could not amount to less than six hundred persons. This boorah was completely free

from the disgusting obscenity exhibited in the former entertainments, which I have before had occasion to notice. It was conducted through every part with great life and vivacity; and was, without exception, the most pleasing amusement of the kind we had seen performed in the course of the voyage.

      The spectators, who were as numerous as at Owhyhee, were in their best apparel, and all retired very peaceably after the close of the performance, about the setting of the sun.

      All our friends seemed to be much gratified with the applause we had bestowed, and the satisfaction we expressed at the great skill, dexterity, and taste of the performers. This entertainment was stated to be in compliment to the pregnancy of one of the regent's wives, and that it would frequently be repeated until the was brought to bed; which event was expected to take place in about three months.

      In return for the amusement we had derived, we entertained the multitude after it was dark in our way, by a display of fire works, which as usual were received with great surprize and admiration.

      The weather being more settled, on the following day we completed our water; and having procured a few hogs, with a tolerable supply of vegetables, our intended departure was made known to the regent prince and the rest of the chiefs; who, on receiving such presents as their services had demanded or the occasion required, all took their leave, (excepting one or two who proposed to accompany us to Onehow,) with every expression of the most friendly regard and attachment, and with repeated solicitations for our speedy return.

      For the purpose of procuring a sea stock of yams, which we were given to understand by the natives might be readily obtained at Onehow, we quitted Attowai in the morning of the 13th, and directed our course to that island.

      By our several visits to Attowai, we had found that the roadstead of Whymea was much confined in respect of safe anchorage; for although the Discovery's cables had not been injured by a foul bottom, yet the Chatham, in march 1792, when anchored in 30 fathoms water at only a convenient distance to the north-west of the Discovery, on a bottom of

soft mud, had both her cables much fretted and damaged by the rocks at the bottom; and not far to the eastward of our easternmost anchor was found also a patch of rocky bottom, in some places not deeper than 4 fathoms, though surrounded by a depth of from 30 to 40 fathoms.

      Although a situation more convenient to the shore, in a less depth of water and with a muddy bottom, might have been taken within the Discovery's Ration, and is to be found by keeping the steep banks of the river not shut in, but just a little open; yet, from the lurking patches of rocks that have been found near the same sort of bottom, it is evident that great caution should be observed to avoid those hidden dangers; which may serve to account for the cables of former vessels having been cut through, without resorting to an operation which appears to me incredible, and I believe impossible to have been effected.

      It had been positively asserted, and I doubt not as positively believed, that the natives were capable of diving to the depth of 40 fathoms, and there cutting through a twelve or fourteen inch cable; they have not only been suspected and accused of accomplishing this task, but have been fired upon by some whose cables have been supposed to be thus injured; an act not to be justified by common humanity, or commonsense. These people are however very expert swimmers, and almost as dexterous as fish in the water, but their efforts are chiefly confined to the surface; though some of them dive exceedingly well, yet they are not capable of descending to such a depth, or of remaining under water a sufficient time to cut through a cable.

      One of the best divers of the country in Tamaahmaah's estimation, I saw endeavour at Karakakooa to recover a caulking iron that had been dropped in 12 fathoms water; and in order to induce his utmost exertion, a great reward was offered to him if he succeeded; but after two unsuccessful attempts he was so tired and exhausted, that he was unable to make a third trial then, though he promised to renew his exertions the next day; the same reward was then again offered to him, but he could not be prevailed upon to make another effort, and the caulking iron remained at the bottom.

      About two in the afternoon we anchored off the west side of Onehow, in 18 fathoms water, soft sandy bottom; the north-west point of the island bearing by compass N. 25 E., half a league distant; the nearest shore E.S.E., about a mile and a quarter; its west point S. 15 E..; Tahoorowa S. 43 W.; and the outer part of the reef that extends from the north-west point of Onehow, N. 8 E.

      In the evening, Mr. Puget, who I had directed to examine the north west side of this island, in the Chatham joined us, and acquainted me that the Chatham was very crank.

      We had now accomplished our survey of the Sandwich islands; and as our expectations were appointed in the promised supply of yams, in the evening of the 14th we took our leave of Onehow.

      In the situation where we had anchored, our cables had not received any damage; but the Chatham, at anchor near us, hooked a rock under water, which engaged them some time, and was with difficulty cleared; after great danger of losing the anchor, as the cable was nearly chased through by the rocks. It is here necessary to remark, that although this station has been the general rendezvous of the several vessels that have resorted hither, for the yams and other refreshments that Onehow once afforded, it is in all respects greatly inferior to the place of our anchorage on our former visit; the bottom here being at a greater depth, and very rocky, and the situation open, and exposed to all the violence of the north and north-west winds, and the swell of the ocean. The other situation is protected from this inconvenience, with the additional advantages of a less depth of water, and a clear bottom of good holding ground. It is not, however, quite so central for the inhabitants to bring the produce of the island to market; but this is of little importance, for when they have any to dispose of the distance is not regarded by them.

      At the anchorage we had just quitted, we left the Washington and an American ship called the Nancy; the latter had arrived only a short time before our departure; and as it was natural to suppose that the must have recently quitted the civilized world, her approach produced no small degree of anxiety in the hope of obtaining some European in-

telligence. But we were disappointed in these hopes, as those on board of her were as totally ignorant of transactions there as ourselves, having been absent from New York twenty-two months; during which time they had been principally engaged at Falkland's islands and Staten land, in collecting seal skins and oil. Not being satisfied with their endeavours to the southward, they had repaired hither to procure provisions and refreshments, with the intention of proceeding afterwards to the coast of North West America, in order to collect furs, which they understood were to be had there; but, according to their own account, they neither knew what were the proper commodities, nor were they possessed of any articles of traffic for obtaining such a cargo from the inhabitants of the several countries.

      On sailing from Onehow, I appointed cape Douglas in Cook's river our next place of rendezvous with the Chatham, in case of separation. There I purposed to re-commence our survey of the coast of North West America; and from thence to trace its boundary eastward to cape Decision, the point which is stated to have terminated the pretended ancient Spanish discoveries.

      Having ascertained satisfactorily that there was not any extensive navigation eastwardly, between the 30th and 56th degrees of north latitude, on this side of the American continent, I was led to believe, that if any such did exist, it would most probably be found communicating with Cook's river, up which I entertained no doubt of penetrating to a very considerable distance; and should we not be able to complete our researches in the course of the present season, we should at any rate, by this mode, reduce the unexplored part of the coast within very narrow limits. And as the examination of Cook's river appeared to me to be the most important, and I did not doubt would prove the most laborious, part of our task in the ensuing campaign, I was willing not to lose any portion of the approaching season, but to avail ourselves of the whole of it, for the sake of insuring, as far as was within our powers, a certainty in the accomplishment of that object. For this purpose I wished to be in readiness to commence the pursuit the instant the spring was sufficiently ad-

vanced to render our endeavours practicable, and which was now likely to be the case by the time we should reach that distance.

      It was not much out of our way to ascertain the situation of a small island, discovered in 1788 by the commander of the Prince of Wales, and by him called Bird island, in consequence of its being the resort of vast flocks of the feathered tribe; and also to examine the neighbouring parts of the ocean, where Captain Cook in his passage from Oonalashka to the Sandwich islands in the year 1778 saw a shag, and other indications of the vicinity of land. For these purposes, our course was first directed N.W. by N. in quest of Bird island, under an easy sail, in order to allow the Chatham to come up with us, which the did about midnight.

      At day-light on the 15th we made all sail, and stood more to the westward, surrounded by an immense number and considerable variety of oceanic birds, consisting of the small black and white albatrosses, tropic, and men of war birds; with boobies, noddies, and petrels of different kinds. In the forenoon the wind at E. N. E. blew a fresh gale, and in consequence of some of the back-stays giving way, we were obliged to reduce our sail; and as we had but little cordage to replace such rigging, these defects became a consideration of a very unpleasant nature in this early part of our summer's expedition.

      At noon the latitude observed was 23° 14', longitude 198° 42'; the former was 14' further north than was shewn by our reckoning, and was nearly the same distance to the north of the latitude assigned to Bird island; but as we expected to find it further to the westward, though by some accounts we had now passed its meridian, our course was directed to the south-west, and by two in the afternoon it was seen bearing by compass W. S. W. about 7 leagues distant. About six in the evening we reached, and passed along the southern side of, this very remarkable, solitary island, or more properly speaking, single rock, rising out of this immense ocean. Its greatest extent, which was in a direction S. 74 W., and N. 71 E., did not exceed one mile; the uncouth form of its northern, eastern, and western extremities, against which the sea broke with great violence, presented a most awful appearance, rising perpendicularly from the ocean in lofty rugged cliffs, inaccessible but to its winged inhabitants:

on its southern side the ascent is not so steep and abrupt; and near its western extremity is a small sandy beach, where in fine weather, and with a smooth sea, a landing might probably be effected. At this place there was the appearance of a little verdure, though it was destitute of tree or shrub; every other part was apparently without soil, and consisted only of the naked rock. Its whole circumference does not exceed a league, and it is situated in latitude 23° 6', longitude 198° 8'. When this rock was first discovered in 1788, there were on board the Prince of Wales some of the natives of Attowai, who expressed great surprize that there should be land so near to their islands (it lying from Onehow N. 51 W. at the distance of 39 leagues only,) and of which not only themselves, but all their countrymen were totally ignorant.

      This intelligence was communicated on their return in the autumn of that year; and it excited in the active mind of Taio a strong desire to pay it a visit, to establish a colony there, and to annex it to his dominions; but on his being made thoroughly acquainted with its extent and sterility by the officers of that vessel, his project was abandoned. Those people however recognize it under the appellation of Modoo Mannoo, that is, Bird island; and from its great distance from all other land, and its proximity to their islands, it seems to claim some distant pretensions to be ranked in the group of the Sandwich islands, of which we now took leave, pursuant to the determination already stated.

George Vancouver.
John Vancouver (ed.)
      A Voyage of Discovery to the North Pacific Ocean, and Round the World; In which the Coast of North-west America Has Been Carefully Examined and Accurately Surveyed. Undertaken by His Majesty's Command, Principally with a View to Ascertain the Existence of Any Navigable Communication Between the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans; and Performed in the Years 1790, 1791, 1792, 1793, 1794, and 1795, in the Discovery Sloop of War, and Armed Tender Chatham, Under the Command of Captain George Vancouver.
  Three Volumes.
London: G.G. and J. Robinson ... and J. Edwards, 1798.
Vol. 3, pp.1-82.

      The volume from which this selection has been transcribed is available at Google Books.

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